Trend Forecast Data Helps Designers Boost Sales

Jewellery design forecasting helps designers and manufacturers make the right business decisions as they are more likely to craft pieces that will succeed commercially.

Trends expert Paola De Luca has outlined trend themes for Spring-Summer 2019 for IJL. Her vision includes designs rooted in urban lifestyles, the renaissance of pearls, dark romantic influences, and a blending of Art Deco and 1960s Op Art themes.

She also says the presence of the space trend on the fashion runways is permeating into jewellery designs. Paola will present her detailed forecasts in a seminar at IJL in September, following a well-attended talk at the show last year.

Related Blogs: IJL Reveals the Top 6 Jewellery Trends of SS/19

Designers and industry specialists believe that perspicacious jewellery design forecasts can be essential tools in making business decisions.

“Trend forecasting assists me in deciding what is going to provide me with the best profit and what will commercially sell,” says London-based designer Sara Peymanpour, whose design themes are influenced by her Persian heritage.

“I believe every designer and creator needs to be aware of the trends, to look at how every trend has a root in history and how it is being revived and updated again and again. I do observe trends via many platforms from Instagram, street photography websites and fashion shows, to travelling and economic news, not to follow the trends but to inspire and create the next one by using the data gathered, my own intuition and personal inspirations,” she says.

Naomi Newton-Sherlock, Creative Director of Domino Jewellery, said Domino’s product development strategy is influenced by several key factors of which forecasting aesthetic trends is an essential part.

“We use subtle interpretations of key trends to ensure our pieces have both current appeal and critically longevity,” she says. “Understanding and interpreting trends can be quite daunting to the uninitiated: filtering information to distil the relevant aspects is a fine art.

“As a fine jewellery producer, primarily of bridal designs, we usually side-step trends that are likely to be fleeting. We focus, instead, on those that will have longer term appeal with consumers to ensure we keep our products as relevant and desirable as possible.”

Aishleen Lester, a Kickstarter at IJL 2018, who has created designer brand Le Ster Jewellery, says that knowing about trends is invaluable to her as a designer.

“It gives an insight into what people might be drawn to – colours, styles, settings, themes etc,” she says.

“However, working as an independent designer, I find a majority of my customers want to have a timeless, almost universal appeal. They want to see a thread running from one piece to another. So I would say it is about balance: balancing your consistent voice whilst being aware of trends, so that both inform the other during the design and making process but also the marketing process – in the way you choose to frame your pieces in the world.”

Related Blogs: All that Glitters: Red Carpet Jewels from the Cannes Film Festival

Kathryn Bishop, a well-respected industry journalist, gives a few tips to designers on how to make the right business decisions using trends data, while remaining true to their brand essence.

“As a starting point, step back to first consider your own brand DNA and USPs against the trends, assessing which are a natural fit with your current aesthetic, or have potential to tease at your design boundaries and inspire your customers with something new,” she says.

“Take cues, too, from the materials and techniques you regularly use – be they precious metals, leather, zirconia – and the ease with which they might be elevated by drawing on design motifs or nuances from these trends,” she adds.

Such trends also provide an opportunity to explore new applications and finishes that might be on a designer’s radar, for example specialist platings like nano-ceramic, or overlooked but alluring gems such as keshi pearls.

Kathryn adds: “Ultimately, among UK customers in particular, successful collections are often those that provide accessible, wearable nuances of major trends while communicating a clear identity about the wearer.”

IJL is #withyou offering insights into the latest trends to support your design and buying decisions. Find out more about our 2018 exhibitors or contact a member of our team for more information. 

Opportunities Abound for UK Jewellers as Gold Price Falls

Gold prices slid sharply in the first half of the year, creating an opportunity for UK jewellers and jewellery manufacturers to restock the precious metal.

However, the weak pound, near an eight-month low against the dollar, complicates procurement, with volatility in the exchange rate set to continue due to global trade tensions and uncertainty over Brexit negotiations with the EU.

The confrontation between the United States and its main trading partners after President Trump announced tariffs, has led to a surge in demand for the dollar and U.S. Treasuries, instead of gold, which is often considered to be a “safe haven” in times of geopolitical uncertainty.

Gold prices were down 5.2% in the first half of the year, silver was down 6.3%, platinum was off 9.8%, and palladium was down 14.4%.

Related Blogs: Investment Jewellery in the Spotlight at London Auctions

Dollar strength looks set to continue, but its future impact on the gold price is less clear, especially if the yellow metal reclaims its “safe haven” status due to growing geopolitical tensions, an escalating trade confrontation, and rising inflation pressures.

“Inflation has been picking up, which may ultimately bring gold buyers back into the market,” Bank of America Merrill Lynch said in a report. The bank has now reiterated its forecast for gold prices to average around $1,400 an ounce in the fourth quarter.

Related Blogs: International Focus -Thailand Aims to be Leading Gems and Jewellery Hub

Lawrie Williams, gold market commentator with bullion broker Sharps Pixley, said that now might be a good time to buy gold and silver. He said: “The recent precious metals weakness is largely a representation of dollar strength embellished by the American trade tariff implementation.

“The likely trade war may not be advantageous to the American consumer, but it is also seen as possibly more damaging to non-U.S. economies – notably to the EU and China – and perceived weakness in those areas is seen as beneficial to the U.S. dollar index.”

UK jewellers and jewellery manufacturers looking to restock gold, have struggled to benefit from the drop in bullion prices, due to the weakness of the pound. The UK economy grew 0.2% in the January-to-March quarter, against a preliminary number of 0.1%, providing some argument for a possible rise in interest rates in August. But the growth figure was still a weak number.

Related Blogs: The 5 Biggest Watch Trends to Shape Your 2018/19 Buying Decisions

UK jewellers and jewellery manufacturers will have to get used to further volatility in the pound-dollar exchange rate as the UK government struggles to hammer out a deal with the EU, and as global trade fears mount.

IJL is #withyou offering international insights that reveal the highs, lows and opportunities for growth in our industry. Find out more about our 2018 exhibitors or contact a member of our team for more information. 

Disclaimer: this column should not be seen as advice or a recommendation for investment. Any opinions expressed are those of the author.

IJL Reveals the Top 6 Jewellery Trends of SS/19

IJL Trends Editor, jewellery expert and forecasting specialist, Paola De Luca, has outlined six key jewellery trends for Spring/Summer 2019 ahead of IJL 2018 from September 2-4. 

Her vision includes designs rooted in urban lifestyles, the renaissance of pearls, dark romantic influences, and a blending of Art Deco and 1960s Op Art themes. These will be showcased on IJL’s SS19 Trends Catwalk where Paola will also present a more detailed forecast.

SS/19 Jewellery Trends

  • Industrial Core; inspired by urban lifestyles, architecture and redefined industrial materials.
  • I’m Perfection; playing on proportions that creates surreal, optical illusions with geometric and patchwork forms.
  • Neo Classic; classic designs with a twist.
  • Dark Romantic; Drawing inspiration from dark forests, magic and mysticism.
  • Op-Coding; a mix between Art Deco styling from the 1920s and the Optical art of the 1960s
  • Constellation Collective; Stars, moons, planets, flying saucers and constellations will all be captured in sparkling diamonds, especially fancy-cuts and shapes.

Want to submit your jewellery designs to appear on the IJL Trends Catwalk? Discover the trends below and find out how to get involved here.

Industrial Core

This trend is inspired by urban lifestyles, architecture and redefined industrial materials. Expect to see jewellery with strong connections to minimalist design, including a resurgence of links and chains. 

Yellow gold versions decorated with diamonds translate industrial inspirations into fine pieces, while silhouettes are kept simple and unisex – in-keeping with broader fashion trends. This highly-contemporary look ties into the growing number of eco-conscious jewellery designers making their pieces in recycled silver, gold or more unusual materials.

I’m Perfection

This trend is all about a play on proportions that creates surreal, optical illusions with geometric and patchwork forms. 

Jewellery within the I’m Perfection trend could be described as ‘contemporary surrealism’ merged with Picasso’s Cubism; think asymmetrical rings with unusual silhouettes and single earrings that are designed to stand alone, set in yellow and rose gold.

Neo Classic

The pearl continues its renaissance in modern designs. Myriad colours, from golden, peachy pink and white South Sea to silvery-black Tahitian, are inspiring designers to craft new collections with the pearl as the star. 

To nail this trend, think classic designs with a twist set in precious yellow or white gold. Pearls as stackable charms for necklaces, or combined with a medallion or collection of beads, is likely to shine through.

Dark Romantic

Drawing inspiration from dark forests, magic and mysticism, this trend blends Art Nouveau inspirations with something altogether darker. Think pointed forms, minimal flowers, twisted branches and mysterious snakes finding their way into jewellery designs.

Rather than being caricature, this trend has an overall sophisticated and elegant flair, with designs that climb up the ear and swirl around fingers and wrists in gunmetal and shimmering diamonds. Expect to see double finger rings, elongated shapes and spiky earrings especially.

Op-Coding

Discover a mix between Art Deco styling from the 1920s and the Optical art of the 1960s with this striking trend that’s centred on black and white, whether in the form of metals, diamonds or enamel.

 

The Op-Coding theme is all about geometric patterns, pixelated effects and sharp contrasts, so expect to see white diamonds artfully placed on black enamel to create digital patterns. Silhouettes are minimal and simple, with a futuristic edge.

Constellation Collective

The space trend has been evident at all major fashion weeks, from designer brands like Alberta Ferretti to Alexander Wang and Givenchy.

Stars, moons, planets, flying saucers and constellations will all be captured in sparkling diamonds, especially fancy-cuts and shapes. Metals will only exist to prop up diamonds, so expect to see simpler, highly-polished settings that lend themselves perfectly to heirloom treasures.

About Paola de Luca, IJL Trends Editor

As the founder of The Futurist Ltd, Paola specialises in providing luxury brands with creative intelligence that offers an authentic sense of direction and inspiration. Her incredible career includes prominent positions at Fendi Jewellery and Watches, consultancy work at Harry Winston and Swarovski, and the moniker of co-founder of TRENDVISION Jewellery + Forecasting – a preeminent name in the field.

To discover more about these trends and the IJL Trends Catwalk, please click here

IJL is #withyou offering trend forecasting advice to help you get ahead of the next season. To find out more about the IJL Trends, our Trends Editor or The Catwalk Theatre at IJL 2018, please contact us

REVEALED: Discover the Bright Young Gems of IJL 2018

International Jewellery London is thrilled to announce the four winning designers selected for this year’s Bright Young Gems!

Now in its 14th year, Bright Young Gems is an IJL initiative dedicated to the design stars of the future. Every year, a handful of final year students and recent graduates are selected to showcase their work at IJL and benefit from a programme of mentoring from jewellery experts to maximise their show experience.

The Bright Young Gems are selected by a preeminent panel of judges comprising Hilary Alexander OBE, Editor-at-Large Hello Fashion Monthly; Annabel Davidson, Editor of Vanity Fair on Jewellery and Alice Edwards, Jewellery Editor for the Sunday Times Style and The Times LUXX magazine, Liza Urla, influencer and founder of Gemologue and, for the first time representing retailers, guest judge Henry Graham, Creative Director and Co-Founder of Wolf & Badger.

Where Are They Now? Crystal Chien on Finding Confidence and Inspiration as a Bright Young Gem

As always the standard and diversity of work presented was very high and two additional designers were named as Highly Commended by the judges.

Meet the 2018 Bright Young Gems

Katharina Kraus

Having studied at the University of the Arts London Central St Martins, Katharina is distinguished by her cutting-edge handcrafted jewellery. She explores the natural light reflection in gemstones by placing different colours and light reflection styles in juxtaposition with each other, to create visual effects that move and change when worn.Katharina Kraus Central St Martins Bright Young Gems

Altitude and elevation are central to Katharina’s jewellery with each gemstone angled with or away from the body. Originally from Munich, where no building is taller than the church in the city centre, her designs are crafted in gold-plated sterling silver combine translucent agate and transparent quartz with a wide array of clear coloured stones.

Katharina says: “By exhibiting at IJL, I will be able to meet potential stockists and new customers face to face and I am looking forward to the insightful feedback. The mentoring day with industry leaders is an amazing opportunity to grow my network and expand my mind-set. Taking part in the IJL Bright Young Gems initiative will take my business to the next stage and help me establish my work in the UK.”

Zeemou Zeng

A graduate from the London University of the Arts, Zeemou designs contemporary fine jewellery and accessories using his wide knowledge of craftsmanship and different materials (such as precious metals, glass, stones and porcelain) to create unique designs which possess both functionality and beauty.

Having originally studied interior and architecture design in China, followed by an MA course in Designer Making, his breadth of design studies have influenced the way he approaches design, resulting in innovative and often surprising solutions.Zeemou Zeng University of the Arts London Bright Young Gems 2018

This is reflected in Zeemou’s latest fine jewellery collection, Melody, using 18k gold, pearls and cleverly incorporating a unique movement mechanism within each piece.

Zeemou explains: “Being nominated as a Bright Young Gem is the highlight of my career. I am looking forward very much to showing my collections to the UK and international jewellery world at IJL. It is also a fantastic opportunity to network and learn how best to develop my business.”

Daisy Grice

Daisy is a graduate of the Birmingham School of Jewellery with a BA (Hons) in Jewellery and Silversmithing. After working in the industry for two years, Daisy returned to the school and has learnt 3D computer aided design to elevate her traditional bench skills. Daisy Grice Birmingham School of Jewellery Bright Young Gems 2018

The ‘Twisted Tales’ collection that Daisy has designed and made for her graduate show includes a statement neckpiece produced in laser sintered nylon and adorned with sterling silver thorns. Other pieces in the collection are made in solid sterling silver with a highly polished finish and set with black diamonds.

Daisy says: “I am thrilled to have been selected as one of the four Bright Young Gems for 2018, having spent the last year perfecting my skills I am now ready for start of my business and I will be expanding my Twisted Tales collection in preparation for the show Exhibiting at IJL will be the perfect platform to launch myself as a designer to the industry and receive feedback from people viewing my work with fresh eyes.”

Yayun Fang

Yayun studied at the University of the Arts London Central St Martins and finds inspiration for her jewellery designs in the craftsmanship of traditional lace pieces seen in old paintings. By researching and learning bobbin lace making skills, she experimented with her own lace techniques that could be applied to metal. Influenced by digital technology and inspired by classic hip-hop jewellery culture, Yahun creates bold yet delicate jewellery, using traditional craftsmanship and digital software.Yayun Fang Central St Martins Bright Young Gems 2018

Yayun says: “I am thrilled to be nominated as a Bright Young Gem. I am going to use this opportunity as a younger member of the jewellery community to show how exciting and cool it is to combine the traditional aspects of craftsmanship with modern technology to create pieces that are unexpected and vibrant.”

And the Highly Commended Bright Young Gems are… 

The two designers whose work was Highly Commended by the judges are Rosie Groom (Birmingham) and Belle Smith (Central St Martins). Examples of their work will be on show at IJL 2018 alongside seven other shortlisted entries.

Where Are They Now? Amy Stringer on Her Career since Bright Young Gems

What is the IJL Journey?

As part of our IJL 365 approach, the IJL Journey extends far beyond our three-day trade event. It offers myriad career-boosting benefits, including a mentoring package, workshop days, ongoing pricing, branding and marketing support, and introductions to key industry figures.

This invaluable advice prepares each Bright Young Gem, KickStarter and Design Gallery Exhibitor to meet the 9,000 strong jewellery audience at IJL 2018, from September 2-4.

Discover more about the IJL Journey, here. 

IJL is #withyou offering career opportunities and the chance to grow your jewellery business, whether you are a student, recent graduate, emerging brand or established player. Speak to our team to find out more. 

To discover more about this year’s Bright Young Gems, please click here

Free registration for IJL is now open.

Trend Forecast Data Helps Designers Boost Sales

Jewellery design forecasting helps designers and manufacturers make the right business decisions as they are more likely to craft pieces that will succeed commercially.

Trends expert Paola De Luca has outlined trend themes for Spring-Summer 2019 for IJL. Her vision includes designs rooted in urban lifestyles, the renaissance of pearls, dark romantic influences, and a blending of Art Deco and 1960s Op Art themes.

She also says the presence of the space trend on the fashion runways is permeating into jewellery designs. Paola will present her detailed forecasts in a seminar at IJL in September, following a well-attended talk at the show last year.

Related Blogs: IJL Reveals the Top 6 Jewellery Trends of SS/19

Designers and industry specialists believe that perspicacious jewellery design forecasts can be essential tools in making business decisions.

“Trend forecasting assists me in deciding what is going to provide me with the best profit and what will commercially sell,” says London-based designer Sara Peymanpour, whose design themes are influenced by her Persian heritage.

“I believe every designer and creator needs to be aware of the trends, to look at how every trend has a root in history and how it is being revived and updated again and again. I do observe trends via many platforms from Instagram, street photography websites and fashion shows, to travelling and economic news, not to follow the trends but to inspire and create the next one by using the data gathered, my own intuition and personal inspirations,” she says.

Naomi Newton-Sherlock, Creative Director of Domino Jewellery, said Domino’s product development strategy is influenced by several key factors of which forecasting aesthetic trends is an essential part.

“We use subtle interpretations of key trends to ensure our pieces have both current appeal and critically longevity,” she says. “Understanding and interpreting trends can be quite daunting to the uninitiated: filtering information to distil the relevant aspects is a fine art.

“As a fine jewellery producer, primarily of bridal designs, we usually side-step trends that are likely to be fleeting. We focus, instead, on those that will have longer term appeal with consumers to ensure we keep our products as relevant and desirable as possible.”

Aishleen Lester, a Kickstarter at IJL 2018, who has created designer brand Le Ster Jewellery, says that knowing about trends is invaluable to her as a designer.

“It gives an insight into what people might be drawn to – colours, styles, settings, themes etc,” she says.

“However, working as an independent designer, I find a majority of my customers want to have a timeless, almost universal appeal. They want to see a thread running from one piece to another. So I would say it is about balance: balancing your consistent voice whilst being aware of trends, so that both inform the other during the design and making process but also the marketing process – in the way you choose to frame your pieces in the world.”

Related Blogs: All that Glitters: Red Carpet Jewels from the Cannes Film Festival

Kathryn Bishop, a well-respected industry journalist, gives a few tips to designers on how to make the right business decisions using trends data, while remaining true to their brand essence.

“As a starting point, step back to first consider your own brand DNA and USPs against the trends, assessing which are a natural fit with your current aesthetic, or have potential to tease at your design boundaries and inspire your customers with something new,” she says.

“Take cues, too, from the materials and techniques you regularly use – be they precious metals, leather, zirconia – and the ease with which they might be elevated by drawing on design motifs or nuances from these trends,” she adds.

Such trends also provide an opportunity to explore new applications and finishes that might be on a designer’s radar, for example specialist platings like nano-ceramic, or overlooked but alluring gems such as keshi pearls.

Kathryn adds: “Ultimately, among UK customers in particular, successful collections are often those that provide accessible, wearable nuances of major trends while communicating a clear identity about the wearer.”

IJL is #withyou offering insights into the latest trends to support your design and buying decisions. Find out more about our 2018 exhibitors or contact a member of our team for more information. 

Opportunities Abound for UK Jewellers as Gold Price Falls

Gold prices slid sharply in the first half of the year, creating an opportunity for UK jewellers and jewellery manufacturers to restock the precious metal.

However, the weak pound, near an eight-month low against the dollar, complicates procurement, with volatility in the exchange rate set to continue due to global trade tensions and uncertainty over Brexit negotiations with the EU.

The confrontation between the United States and its main trading partners after President Trump announced tariffs, has led to a surge in demand for the dollar and U.S. Treasuries, instead of gold, which is often considered to be a “safe haven” in times of geopolitical uncertainty.

Gold prices were down 5.2% in the first half of the year, silver was down 6.3%, platinum was off 9.8%, and palladium was down 14.4%.

Related Blogs: Investment Jewellery in the Spotlight at London Auctions

Dollar strength looks set to continue, but its future impact on the gold price is less clear, especially if the yellow metal reclaims its “safe haven” status due to growing geopolitical tensions, an escalating trade confrontation, and rising inflation pressures.

“Inflation has been picking up, which may ultimately bring gold buyers back into the market,” Bank of America Merrill Lynch said in a report. The bank has now reiterated its forecast for gold prices to average around $1,400 an ounce in the fourth quarter.

Related Blogs: International Focus -Thailand Aims to be Leading Gems and Jewellery Hub

Lawrie Williams, gold market commentator with bullion broker Sharps Pixley, said that now might be a good time to buy gold and silver. He said: “The recent precious metals weakness is largely a representation of dollar strength embellished by the American trade tariff implementation.

“The likely trade war may not be advantageous to the American consumer, but it is also seen as possibly more damaging to non-U.S. economies – notably to the EU and China – and perceived weakness in those areas is seen as beneficial to the U.S. dollar index.”

UK jewellers and jewellery manufacturers looking to restock gold, have struggled to benefit from the drop in bullion prices, due to the weakness of the pound. The UK economy grew 0.2% in the January-to-March quarter, against a preliminary number of 0.1%, providing some argument for a possible rise in interest rates in August. But the growth figure was still a weak number.

Related Blogs: The 5 Biggest Watch Trends to Shape Your 2018/19 Buying Decisions

UK jewellers and jewellery manufacturers will have to get used to further volatility in the pound-dollar exchange rate as the UK government struggles to hammer out a deal with the EU, and as global trade fears mount.

IJL is #withyou offering international insights that reveal the highs, lows and opportunities for growth in our industry. Find out more about our 2018 exhibitors or contact a member of our team for more information. 

Disclaimer: this column should not be seen as advice or a recommendation for investment. Any opinions expressed are those of the author.

IJL Reveals the Top 6 Jewellery Trends of SS/19

IJL Trends Editor, jewellery expert and forecasting specialist, Paola De Luca, has outlined six key jewellery trends for Spring/Summer 2019 ahead of IJL 2018 from September 2-4. 

Her vision includes designs rooted in urban lifestyles, the renaissance of pearls, dark romantic influences, and a blending of Art Deco and 1960s Op Art themes. These will be showcased on IJL’s SS19 Trends Catwalk where Paola will also present a more detailed forecast.

SS/19 Jewellery Trends

  • Industrial Core; inspired by urban lifestyles, architecture and redefined industrial materials.
  • I’m Perfection; playing on proportions that creates surreal, optical illusions with geometric and patchwork forms.
  • Neo Classic; classic designs with a twist.
  • Dark Romantic; Drawing inspiration from dark forests, magic and mysticism.
  • Op-Coding; a mix between Art Deco styling from the 1920s and the Optical art of the 1960s
  • Constellation Collective; Stars, moons, planets, flying saucers and constellations will all be captured in sparkling diamonds, especially fancy-cuts and shapes.

Want to submit your jewellery designs to appear on the IJL Trends Catwalk? Discover the trends below and find out how to get involved here.

Industrial Core

This trend is inspired by urban lifestyles, architecture and redefined industrial materials. Expect to see jewellery with strong connections to minimalist design, including a resurgence of links and chains. 

Yellow gold versions decorated with diamonds translate industrial inspirations into fine pieces, while silhouettes are kept simple and unisex – in-keeping with broader fashion trends. This highly-contemporary look ties into the growing number of eco-conscious jewellery designers making their pieces in recycled silver, gold or more unusual materials.

I’m Perfection

This trend is all about a play on proportions that creates surreal, optical illusions with geometric and patchwork forms. 

Jewellery within the I’m Perfection trend could be described as ‘contemporary surrealism’ merged with Picasso’s Cubism; think asymmetrical rings with unusual silhouettes and single earrings that are designed to stand alone, set in yellow and rose gold.

Neo Classic

The pearl continues its renaissance in modern designs. Myriad colours, from golden, peachy pink and white South Sea to silvery-black Tahitian, are inspiring designers to craft new collections with the pearl as the star. 

To nail this trend, think classic designs with a twist set in precious yellow or white gold. Pearls as stackable charms for necklaces, or combined with a medallion or collection of beads, is likely to shine through.

Dark Romantic

Drawing inspiration from dark forests, magic and mysticism, this trend blends Art Nouveau inspirations with something altogether darker. Think pointed forms, minimal flowers, twisted branches and mysterious snakes finding their way into jewellery designs.

Rather than being caricature, this trend has an overall sophisticated and elegant flair, with designs that climb up the ear and swirl around fingers and wrists in gunmetal and shimmering diamonds. Expect to see double finger rings, elongated shapes and spiky earrings especially.

Op-Coding

Discover a mix between Art Deco styling from the 1920s and the Optical art of the 1960s with this striking trend that’s centred on black and white, whether in the form of metals, diamonds or enamel.

 

The Op-Coding theme is all about geometric patterns, pixelated effects and sharp contrasts, so expect to see white diamonds artfully placed on black enamel to create digital patterns. Silhouettes are minimal and simple, with a futuristic edge.

Constellation Collective

The space trend has been evident at all major fashion weeks, from designer brands like Alberta Ferretti to Alexander Wang and Givenchy.

Stars, moons, planets, flying saucers and constellations will all be captured in sparkling diamonds, especially fancy-cuts and shapes. Metals will only exist to prop up diamonds, so expect to see simpler, highly-polished settings that lend themselves perfectly to heirloom treasures.

About Paola de Luca, IJL Trends Editor

As the founder of The Futurist Ltd, Paola specialises in providing luxury brands with creative intelligence that offers an authentic sense of direction and inspiration. Her incredible career includes prominent positions at Fendi Jewellery and Watches, consultancy work at Harry Winston and Swarovski, and the moniker of co-founder of TRENDVISION Jewellery + Forecasting – a preeminent name in the field.

To discover more about these trends and the IJL Trends Catwalk, please click here

IJL is #withyou offering trend forecasting advice to help you get ahead of the next season. To find out more about the IJL Trends, our Trends Editor or The Catwalk Theatre at IJL 2018, please contact us

REVEALED: Discover the Bright Young Gems of IJL 2018

International Jewellery London is thrilled to announce the four winning designers selected for this year’s Bright Young Gems!

Now in its 14th year, Bright Young Gems is an IJL initiative dedicated to the design stars of the future. Every year, a handful of final year students and recent graduates are selected to showcase their work at IJL and benefit from a programme of mentoring from jewellery experts to maximise their show experience.

The Bright Young Gems are selected by a preeminent panel of judges comprising Hilary Alexander OBE, Editor-at-Large Hello Fashion Monthly; Annabel Davidson, Editor of Vanity Fair on Jewellery and Alice Edwards, Jewellery Editor for the Sunday Times Style and The Times LUXX magazine, Liza Urla, influencer and founder of Gemologue and, for the first time representing retailers, guest judge Henry Graham, Creative Director and Co-Founder of Wolf & Badger.

Where Are They Now? Crystal Chien on Finding Confidence and Inspiration as a Bright Young Gem

As always the standard and diversity of work presented was very high and two additional designers were named as Highly Commended by the judges.

Meet the 2018 Bright Young Gems

Katharina Kraus

Having studied at the University of the Arts London Central St Martins, Katharina is distinguished by her cutting-edge handcrafted jewellery. She explores the natural light reflection in gemstones by placing different colours and light reflection styles in juxtaposition with each other, to create visual effects that move and change when worn.Katharina Kraus Central St Martins Bright Young Gems

Altitude and elevation are central to Katharina’s jewellery with each gemstone angled with or away from the body. Originally from Munich, where no building is taller than the church in the city centre, her designs are crafted in gold-plated sterling silver combine translucent agate and transparent quartz with a wide array of clear coloured stones.

Katharina says: “By exhibiting at IJL, I will be able to meet potential stockists and new customers face to face and I am looking forward to the insightful feedback. The mentoring day with industry leaders is an amazing opportunity to grow my network and expand my mind-set. Taking part in the IJL Bright Young Gems initiative will take my business to the next stage and help me establish my work in the UK.”

Zeemou Zeng

A graduate from the London University of the Arts, Zeemou designs contemporary fine jewellery and accessories using his wide knowledge of craftsmanship and different materials (such as precious metals, glass, stones and porcelain) to create unique designs which possess both functionality and beauty.

Having originally studied interior and architecture design in China, followed by an MA course in Designer Making, his breadth of design studies have influenced the way he approaches design, resulting in innovative and often surprising solutions.Zeemou Zeng University of the Arts London Bright Young Gems 2018

This is reflected in Zeemou’s latest fine jewellery collection, Melody, using 18k gold, pearls and cleverly incorporating a unique movement mechanism within each piece.

Zeemou explains: “Being nominated as a Bright Young Gem is the highlight of my career. I am looking forward very much to showing my collections to the UK and international jewellery world at IJL. It is also a fantastic opportunity to network and learn how best to develop my business.”

Daisy Grice

Daisy is a graduate of the Birmingham School of Jewellery with a BA (Hons) in Jewellery and Silversmithing. After working in the industry for two years, Daisy returned to the school and has learnt 3D computer aided design to elevate her traditional bench skills. Daisy Grice Birmingham School of Jewellery Bright Young Gems 2018

The ‘Twisted Tales’ collection that Daisy has designed and made for her graduate show includes a statement neckpiece produced in laser sintered nylon and adorned with sterling silver thorns. Other pieces in the collection are made in solid sterling silver with a highly polished finish and set with black diamonds.

Daisy says: “I am thrilled to have been selected as one of the four Bright Young Gems for 2018, having spent the last year perfecting my skills I am now ready for start of my business and I will be expanding my Twisted Tales collection in preparation for the show Exhibiting at IJL will be the perfect platform to launch myself as a designer to the industry and receive feedback from people viewing my work with fresh eyes.”

Yayun Fang

Yayun studied at the University of the Arts London Central St Martins and finds inspiration for her jewellery designs in the craftsmanship of traditional lace pieces seen in old paintings. By researching and learning bobbin lace making skills, she experimented with her own lace techniques that could be applied to metal. Influenced by digital technology and inspired by classic hip-hop jewellery culture, Yahun creates bold yet delicate jewellery, using traditional craftsmanship and digital software.Yayun Fang Central St Martins Bright Young Gems 2018

Yayun says: “I am thrilled to be nominated as a Bright Young Gem. I am going to use this opportunity as a younger member of the jewellery community to show how exciting and cool it is to combine the traditional aspects of craftsmanship with modern technology to create pieces that are unexpected and vibrant.”

And the Highly Commended Bright Young Gems are… 

The two designers whose work was Highly Commended by the judges are Rosie Groom (Birmingham) and Belle Smith (Central St Martins). Examples of their work will be on show at IJL 2018 alongside seven other shortlisted entries.

Where Are They Now? Amy Stringer on Her Career since Bright Young Gems

What is the IJL Journey?

As part of our IJL 365 approach, the IJL Journey extends far beyond our three-day trade event. It offers myriad career-boosting benefits, including a mentoring package, workshop days, ongoing pricing, branding and marketing support, and introductions to key industry figures.

This invaluable advice prepares each Bright Young Gem, KickStarter and Design Gallery Exhibitor to meet the 9,000 strong jewellery audience at IJL 2018, from September 2-4.

Discover more about the IJL Journey, here. 

IJL is #withyou offering career opportunities and the chance to grow your jewellery business, whether you are a student, recent graduate, emerging brand or established player. Speak to our team to find out more. 

To discover more about this year’s Bright Young Gems, please click here

Free registration for IJL is now open.