Blog Modules

IJL Inspired

IJL Inspired: Interview with Bright Young Gem, Isla Gilham

by IJL •

Isla Gilham graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2018 and, since then has set up her own workshop in Somerset where she has continued to create precious pieces with playful twists.

Jewellery is delicious, tempting and often described as ‘good enough to eat’. Her work plays on this narrative. She hand carves bites from an array of juicy and enticing gemstones. Setting them in gold plated silver which also appear to have been tasted, scattered with crumbs and twisted in the haste of grabbing the delicious morsel. We caught up with Isla to discuss her delicious jewellery, inspirations, and to find out what you can expect from the brand at IJL 2019.

Bitten Lapis Ring

What made you want to apply to be a Bright Young Gem at IJL 2019?

I thought it’d be a real honour to be chosen as a Bright Young Gem having seen the designers who had previously been selected and where their careers have taken them. I also thought that it’d be a fantastic platform to showcase my work and a really valuable experience.

What are you most looking forward to during your Bright Young Gem experience?

I’m really looking forward to discussing my work and hearing feedback. The day to day reality of being a designer-maker means I don’t get to do this often but I’m excited to use this opportunity to do so in order to push my work. I also think the experience will be really beneficial in helping me find my place in the industry.

Tell us about where you get your inspiration from?

Bitten Pendant

I have always been inspired by jewellers such as Boodles and Van Cleef & Arpels who create the most enticing, mouth watering pieces of jewellery; Igniting the narrative to my own. Whilst my Great Grandfathers handcrafted silver tiara adorned with ‘Jelly Tots’ sparked my imagination of the two worlds intertwined. However, I think the main inspiration for my work is the extraordinary beauty, tempting nature and deliciousness of gemstones.

Tell us a little about the work you will be bringing to IJL 2019?

The work I’ll be bringing to IJL will be tempting, delicious and precious with a playful twist. Traditional forms will be met by the chaos of indulgence and devour.

When did you first discover your love of jewellery?

Bitten Quartz Ring

I’ve always loved jewellery but around eight years ago, I came across a jewellery workshop on the isle of Iona. The pieces reflected and told stories of the island; Celtic patterns, Serpentine pebbles, coastlines and simplistic beauty. Although this is very different from my work now, I loved that jewellery could carry a narrative and it was at this point that I knew I wanted to create jewellery too.

Who would you love to see wearing your jewellery?

I would LOVE to see Grayson Perry wearing my work. He’s an artist that inspires me, using traditional methods and forms with a contemporary twist.

If you had to summarise your brand in a couple of words, what would you use?

Playful and delicious.

Make sure to register for your FREE ticket to IJL 2019 and pay a visit to the cutting-edge talent on the KickStart and Bright Young Gem collective stand in the prestigious design gallery.

IJL Inspired

IJL Inspired: Interview with KickStart winner, Hannah Blackwood

by IJL •

Hannah Blackwood Jewellery aims to inspire the wearer to make the most of everyday and to live like it was their last day. Hannah marries traditional jewellery making with the latest computer assisted design techniques in the creation of her pieces. These innovative techniques and unique designs inspired and intrigued our judges. We caught up with Hannah ahead of IJL to discuss her inspirations, collections and what you can expect to see from her at the show.

What made you want to apply to be a KickStarter at IJL 2019?

I wanted to apply to KickStarter because I thought it would be a fantastic opportunity to help raise my profile as a jewellery designer.

What are you most looking forward to during your KickStart experience?

I am most looking forward to meeting other designers and suppliers from all over the world and of course exploring the gem section.

Tell us about where you get your inspiration from?

I’m heavily inspired by the Memento Mori of the 15th to 17th century, I think it is the perfect reminder on how to live your life. I translate that inspiration through my fascination with pocket watches and their internal workings. I’m also inspired by natural form and tattoos.

Tell us a little about the work you will be bringing to IJL 2019?

One of the collections I am bringing is Tempus Fugit. It’s inspired by pocket watches and their internal workings. Some of the pieces are set with rubies and sapphires because traditionally those gems were used as bearings in watches.

When did you first discover your love of jewellery?

When I was 10, I did an enamelling course and I guess my love of jewellery started there. When I was at school and knew I wanted to pursue a career in jewellery and I went to evening glasses and absolutely loved it.

Who would you love to see wearing your jewellery?

I would love to see Pink, Annie Lennox, Dita Von Teese or Florence Welch wearing my pieces.

If you had to summarise your brand in a couple of words, what would you use?

Alternative, edgy and thought-provoking

Make sure to register for your FREE ticket to IJL 2019 and pay a visit to the cutting-edge talent on the KickStart and Bright Young Gem collective stand in the prestigious design gallery.

Industry, Trends

Light Akoya pearl jewel designs and baroque pearls are on-trend

by David Brough •

Lightweight Akoya pearl jewellery designs and baroque pearls are hotly sought after by customers, UK suppliers say.

“The designs which have been most successful for us this year are those using small, top quality Akoya and freshwater pearls set with diamonds,” said Michael Hakimian, CEO of Yoko London, an exhibitor at IJL in 2019. “The overall look is lighter and more delicate, and clients have responded very positively to this fresh design approach.”

London Pearl, a Watford-based supplier of cultured pearls and cultured pearl jewellery, has also seen a marked uptake of Akoya pearl jewellery. “The main trend for the year has been the growth in sales in Japanese Akoya pearls with very strong demand for 7 and 8mm necklaces and earrings,” said Daniel Vecht, managing director of London Pearl, a longstanding IJL exhibitor.

Miranda Raw of IJL exhibitor Raw Pearls said: “There has been a huge trend towards baroque pearls in designs this year. We regularly supply loose material to designers and have noted this trend in our sales to those customers as a category this year.”

Pearls are incredibly versatile as they are available in a wide range of sizes, shapes and colours. As such, they combine well with almost any material.

“Most of our designs use diamonds alongside pearls, and we have used many other materials from precious stones like rubies, emeralds and sapphires, to semi-precious stones like morganite and amethyst,” Yoko London’s Hakimian said.

Vecht said: “At the lower end the demand is good for CZ’s with pearls; at the higher end our fancy natural colour diamonds go well with fancy natural colour pearls. We have done well with items that feature pink or blue diamonds.”

Yoko London’s Trend Collection has been one of its best sellers, in the UK and globally. It features easy to wear, everyday pearl jewellery, with a mix of classic and contemporary pearl pieces. Yoko London’s fashion-forward designs can be seen in its Raindrop and Starlight Collections, unveiled earlier this year.

For London Pearl, the best seller this year is certainly the Japanese Akoya pearl in any product. “Customers have become increasingly discerning and are moving away from the mass market freshwater pearls,” Vecht said.

Miranda Raw said: “Our best sellers at the moment are often hand selected, unique, interesting pearl necklaces. They have a vibrancy and lustre that is just fabulous.”

Yoko London anticipates a continuation of the latest trends for the foreseeable future. “Many of our clients are busy individuals who need jewellery which is comfortable and easy to wear in a variety of situations,” Hakimian said. “As a result, many of our new pieces use smaller, high quality Akoya and freshwater pearls, which results in lighter jewellery that can easily transition from day to night.”

Vecht said: “The trend is certainly towards versatile jewellery where a single item can be worn in many different ways.”

Register to attend International Jewellery London 2019 and meet leading pearl jewellery brands and suppliers including Raw Pearls, Yoko London, Samuel Jones Pearls, Ora Pearls and many more.

IJL Inspired

IJL Inspired: Interview with Bright Young Gem, Lingjun Sun

by IJL •

Lingjun Sun has recently completed a two-year MA Jewellery Design project at Central Saint Martins, after having worked for 10 years as an Opal cutter in Australia.

Within the carefully designed and boldly coloured settings, Sun matches the opal with new vocabularies of materials. Corian and anodized aluminium meet gold and silver to offer a stark contrast with the characteristics of the stone. The unusual material palette and innovative design work wowed the Bright Young Gem judges!

We caught up with Lingjun ahead of IJL 2019 to discuss his collections, inspirations and Bright Young Gem experience.

What made you want to apply to be a Bright Young Gem at IJL 2019?

IJL has a great reputation and high standard in the industry, which makes winning BYG a great confirmation to my work and brings huge opportunities.

What are you most looking forward to during your Bright Young Gem experience?

Constructional feedback and advice from professionals in the field and publicity opportunities.

Tell us about where you get your inspiration from?

Architectural texture.

Tell us a little about the work you will be bringing to IJL 2019?

Boldly coloured, technique driven, fine art jewellery.

When did you first discover your love of jewellery?

I have had a curiosity and passion towards antique jewellery since teenage.

Who would you love to see wearing your jewellery?

Artist jeweller, Suzzan Syz

If you had to summarise your brand in a couple of words, what would you use?

Innovative vocabularies of materials and colour palette which define fine jewellery in an ethical and sustainable manner.

Make sure to register for your FREE ticket to IJL 2019 and pay a visit to the cutting-edge talent on the KickStart and Bright Young Gem collective stand in the prestigious design gallery.

IJL Inspired

IJL Inspired: Interview with Bright Young Gem, Isla Gilham

by IJL •

Isla Gilham graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2018 and, since then has set up her own workshop in Somerset where she has continued to create precious pieces with playful twists.

Jewellery is delicious, tempting and often described as ‘good enough to eat’. Her work plays on this narrative. She hand carves bites from an array of juicy and enticing gemstones. Setting them in gold plated silver which also appear to have been tasted, scattered with crumbs and twisted in the haste of grabbing the delicious morsel. We caught up with Isla to discuss her delicious jewellery, inspirations, and to find out what you can expect from the brand at IJL 2019.

Bitten Lapis Ring

What made you want to apply to be a Bright Young Gem at IJL 2019?

I thought it’d be a real honour to be chosen as a Bright Young Gem having seen the designers who had previously been selected and where their careers have taken them. I also thought that it’d be a fantastic platform to showcase my work and a really valuable experience.

What are you most looking forward to during your Bright Young Gem experience?

I’m really looking forward to discussing my work and hearing feedback. The day to day reality of being a designer-maker means I don’t get to do this often but I’m excited to use this opportunity to do so in order to push my work. I also think the experience will be really beneficial in helping me find my place in the industry.

Tell us about where you get your inspiration from?

Bitten Pendant

I have always been inspired by jewellers such as Boodles and Van Cleef & Arpels who create the most enticing, mouth watering pieces of jewellery; Igniting the narrative to my own. Whilst my Great Grandfathers handcrafted silver tiara adorned with ‘Jelly Tots’ sparked my imagination of the two worlds intertwined. However, I think the main inspiration for my work is the extraordinary beauty, tempting nature and deliciousness of gemstones.

Tell us a little about the work you will be bringing to IJL 2019?

The work I’ll be bringing to IJL will be tempting, delicious and precious with a playful twist. Traditional forms will be met by the chaos of indulgence and devour.

When did you first discover your love of jewellery?

Bitten Quartz Ring

I’ve always loved jewellery but around eight years ago, I came across a jewellery workshop on the isle of Iona. The pieces reflected and told stories of the island; Celtic patterns, Serpentine pebbles, coastlines and simplistic beauty. Although this is very different from my work now, I loved that jewellery could carry a narrative and it was at this point that I knew I wanted to create jewellery too.

Who would you love to see wearing your jewellery?

I would LOVE to see Grayson Perry wearing my work. He’s an artist that inspires me, using traditional methods and forms with a contemporary twist.

If you had to summarise your brand in a couple of words, what would you use?

Playful and delicious.

Make sure to register for your FREE ticket to IJL 2019 and pay a visit to the cutting-edge talent on the KickStart and Bright Young Gem collective stand in the prestigious design gallery.

IJL Inspired

IJL Inspired: Interview with KickStart winner, Hannah Blackwood

by IJL •

Hannah Blackwood Jewellery aims to inspire the wearer to make the most of everyday and to live like it was their last day. Hannah marries traditional jewellery making with the latest computer assisted design techniques in the creation of her pieces. These innovative techniques and unique designs inspired and intrigued our judges. We caught up with Hannah ahead of IJL to discuss her inspirations, collections and what you can expect to see from her at the show.

What made you want to apply to be a KickStarter at IJL 2019?

I wanted to apply to KickStarter because I thought it would be a fantastic opportunity to help raise my profile as a jewellery designer.

What are you most looking forward to during your KickStart experience?

I am most looking forward to meeting other designers and suppliers from all over the world and of course exploring the gem section.

Tell us about where you get your inspiration from?

I’m heavily inspired by the Memento Mori of the 15th to 17th century, I think it is the perfect reminder on how to live your life. I translate that inspiration through my fascination with pocket watches and their internal workings. I’m also inspired by natural form and tattoos.

Tell us a little about the work you will be bringing to IJL 2019?

One of the collections I am bringing is Tempus Fugit. It’s inspired by pocket watches and their internal workings. Some of the pieces are set with rubies and sapphires because traditionally those gems were used as bearings in watches.

When did you first discover your love of jewellery?

When I was 10, I did an enamelling course and I guess my love of jewellery started there. When I was at school and knew I wanted to pursue a career in jewellery and I went to evening glasses and absolutely loved it.

Who would you love to see wearing your jewellery?

I would love to see Pink, Annie Lennox, Dita Von Teese or Florence Welch wearing my pieces.

If you had to summarise your brand in a couple of words, what would you use?

Alternative, edgy and thought-provoking

Make sure to register for your FREE ticket to IJL 2019 and pay a visit to the cutting-edge talent on the KickStart and Bright Young Gem collective stand in the prestigious design gallery.

Industry, Trends

Light Akoya pearl jewel designs and baroque pearls are on-trend

by David Brough •

Lightweight Akoya pearl jewellery designs and baroque pearls are hotly sought after by customers, UK suppliers say.

“The designs which have been most successful for us this year are those using small, top quality Akoya and freshwater pearls set with diamonds,” said Michael Hakimian, CEO of Yoko London, an exhibitor at IJL in 2019. “The overall look is lighter and more delicate, and clients have responded very positively to this fresh design approach.”

London Pearl, a Watford-based supplier of cultured pearls and cultured pearl jewellery, has also seen a marked uptake of Akoya pearl jewellery. “The main trend for the year has been the growth in sales in Japanese Akoya pearls with very strong demand for 7 and 8mm necklaces and earrings,” said Daniel Vecht, managing director of London Pearl, a longstanding IJL exhibitor.

Miranda Raw of IJL exhibitor Raw Pearls said: “There has been a huge trend towards baroque pearls in designs this year. We regularly supply loose material to designers and have noted this trend in our sales to those customers as a category this year.”

Pearls are incredibly versatile as they are available in a wide range of sizes, shapes and colours. As such, they combine well with almost any material.

“Most of our designs use diamonds alongside pearls, and we have used many other materials from precious stones like rubies, emeralds and sapphires, to semi-precious stones like morganite and amethyst,” Yoko London’s Hakimian said.

Vecht said: “At the lower end the demand is good for CZ’s with pearls; at the higher end our fancy natural colour diamonds go well with fancy natural colour pearls. We have done well with items that feature pink or blue diamonds.”

Yoko London’s Trend Collection has been one of its best sellers, in the UK and globally. It features easy to wear, everyday pearl jewellery, with a mix of classic and contemporary pearl pieces. Yoko London’s fashion-forward designs can be seen in its Raindrop and Starlight Collections, unveiled earlier this year.

For London Pearl, the best seller this year is certainly the Japanese Akoya pearl in any product. “Customers have become increasingly discerning and are moving away from the mass market freshwater pearls,” Vecht said.

Miranda Raw said: “Our best sellers at the moment are often hand selected, unique, interesting pearl necklaces. They have a vibrancy and lustre that is just fabulous.”

Yoko London anticipates a continuation of the latest trends for the foreseeable future. “Many of our clients are busy individuals who need jewellery which is comfortable and easy to wear in a variety of situations,” Hakimian said. “As a result, many of our new pieces use smaller, high quality Akoya and freshwater pearls, which results in lighter jewellery that can easily transition from day to night.”

Vecht said: “The trend is certainly towards versatile jewellery where a single item can be worn in many different ways.”

Register to attend International Jewellery London 2019 and meet leading pearl jewellery brands and suppliers including Raw Pearls, Yoko London, Samuel Jones Pearls, Ora Pearls and many more.

IJL Inspired

IJL Inspired: Interview with Bright Young Gem, Lingjun Sun

by IJL •

Lingjun Sun has recently completed a two-year MA Jewellery Design project at Central Saint Martins, after having worked for 10 years as an Opal cutter in Australia.

Within the carefully designed and boldly coloured settings, Sun matches the opal with new vocabularies of materials. Corian and anodized aluminium meet gold and silver to offer a stark contrast with the characteristics of the stone. The unusual material palette and innovative design work wowed the Bright Young Gem judges!

We caught up with Lingjun ahead of IJL 2019 to discuss his collections, inspirations and Bright Young Gem experience.

What made you want to apply to be a Bright Young Gem at IJL 2019?

IJL has a great reputation and high standard in the industry, which makes winning BYG a great confirmation to my work and brings huge opportunities.

What are you most looking forward to during your Bright Young Gem experience?

Constructional feedback and advice from professionals in the field and publicity opportunities.

Tell us about where you get your inspiration from?

Architectural texture.

Tell us a little about the work you will be bringing to IJL 2019?

Boldly coloured, technique driven, fine art jewellery.

When did you first discover your love of jewellery?

I have had a curiosity and passion towards antique jewellery since teenage.

Who would you love to see wearing your jewellery?

Artist jeweller, Suzzan Syz

If you had to summarise your brand in a couple of words, what would you use?

Innovative vocabularies of materials and colour palette which define fine jewellery in an ethical and sustainable manner.

Make sure to register for your FREE ticket to IJL 2019 and pay a visit to the cutting-edge talent on the KickStart and Bright Young Gem collective stand in the prestigious design gallery.