Q&A: Henry Deakin on new collections and Deakin & Francis’ 230th anniversary

Now in its 230th year, Deakin & Francis continues to impress its customers with imaginative collections, quality craftsmanship and an innovative approach to design.

Its emphasis on brand awareness in recent years has brought the company’s heritage into sharper focus, with managing director, Henry Deakin, predicting that 2016 is a year of exciting changes and growth for the business.

Here, Henry Deakin explains the brand’s new collections and highlights why he has chosen a more prominent stand at this year’s IJL…

Q: Can you tell us a little bit more about the new Fundamentals collection and how that has been received by your retail partners and customers?

HD: Our new Fundamentals collection has been developed, designed and crafted in truly innovative ways. You will find pieces that have been CAD manufactured and milled from individual pieces of metal, pieces that have been precision engineered and pieces that have been made using CAD assembly.
Split into five categories, the range offers something for everyone. From classic, timeless pieces with matching dress studs to quirky cufflinks through to highly engineered, mechanical designs that will amaze and astonish.

The Mechanicals category has been particularly well received. Inspired by everything that powers our world, from engines and cogs to motors and pumps, these are beautifully engineered. Our Sopwith Propeller cufflinks, for example, are made from aircraft grade aluminium. With internal ball bearings, the black cooling blades move as the highly polished blades spin around.

Even the rivets and joining panels have been laser detailed to the highest precision. Every detail is perfected and considered. Available in a range of finishes, at some very accessible price points, the feedback to date has been amazing.

Q: What have been your best-selling designs in recent months?

HD: We really do have such a diverse range, there is a design, style and price point for every taste and budget so we really do sell a complete mix of designs. We have been selling some super classic looks (RRP £75 – £150) – with Fundamentals receiving a lot of fantastic feedback and showing that stockists will restock when they sell product as it turns quickly and is a lot of fun – through to some super cool pieces (RRP £375+). However, we also sold a platinum, pave set of skull cufflinks for £13,000!

BMC0008C0001
Owl cufflinks from the Fundamentals collection

Q: You’ve added necklaces and rings to your women’s offer, how do you see this side of Deakin & Francis developing in the future?

HD: Women’s accessories have been a part of our collection for a while now – with a range of Sterling Silver rings and pendants that are complementary to our cufflinks. Cufflinks are without doubt the mainstay of Deakin & Francis – but we are always thinking ahead to our next design – so who knows where this might lead. We are all about continuing to design and make beautiful jewellery.

Q: What are your experiences of exhibiting at IJL and what are your impressions of the show?

HD: We have been exhibiting at IJL for over 30 years now so we see the show as a very valuable one to the industry – it’s a great way for us to showcase our complete collection and allows retailers to see everything in one place. It’s also a great chance to meet new retailers and see what is going on in the wider jewellery industry.

Q: What will you be presenting at this year’s show at Olympia Grand?

HD: We will be showcasing our innovative new Fundamentals collection. Plus we will have our core collection of sterling silver and gold cufflinks on display, together with our range of accessories – including some of our beautiful crystal glass decanters – it’s a great way to show retailers the whole collection in one go.

This year is also our impressive 230th anniversary – founded in 1786 – my brother James and I are immensely proud of our anniversary and the values and techniques installed by our ancestors. With the Fundamentals launch, as well as our luxurious new look book, we have also moved stands to a new prime position – so we are inviting retailers to come along and visit us at this year’s IJL to help us celebrate.

Q: What are your business aims for 2016 and beyond?

HD: In the past the company supplied some of the most famous, high-end jewellers without our name appearing on the product or box. We felt our heritage and quality meant we needed to address that. Now, our name appears on everything and we feel we are a desired brand – we are immensely proud of that. So plans for the next year are to continue to deliver a number one service, design and make beautiful jewellery and continue to grow the Deakin & Francis brand here in the UK and internationally.

2016 is a very special year for us, we are grateful to everyone who has supported us along the way. We want to continue to grow and seek new retail partners and support them. 2016 has already got off to a fantastic start, but we are planning on making this year a legendary year, so watch this space to see what else we have ‘up our sleeves!’

Henry and James Deakin
Henry Deakin (left) and James Deakin of Deakin & Francis.

Discover more about Deakin & Francis at IJL 2016 from 4th-6th September at Stand C01

Inspire Insights: How UNOde50 is tackling the UK market

Spanish brand UNOde50 may have only been in the UK market for a short while, but its presence has been well and truly felt thanks to innovative visual merchandising techniques, unusual point of sale displays and accessible product lines.

Here, USA and UK wholesale director, David Azulay, explains what makes the brand unique, why its visual identity is so crucial, and what he is looking forward to about International Jewellery London later this year…

Q: How long has UNOde50 been in the UK market and how do you think the brand is progressing here?

DA: UNOde50 has been in the UK since 2015. The brand has a great potential and we are happy because we have a very positive start. The situation of the retail industry in the UK is not good or as good as it is used to be, but, for UNOde50, the United Kingdom is a key market and we have plans for expansion in both retail and wholesale.

Q: You opened a store on Regent Street last year, how has this been for brand awareness in the UK market?

DA: The store is doing well as it is in a perfect location for us. The footfall is good, and people from all over the world visit the street every day, as well as a lot of locals who visit our store regularly. It offers great exposure for the brand, but we haven’t stopped there. We are looking for new stores on the King’s Road and in Covent Garden to increase our presence.

Q: The visual identity and visual merchandising techniques of UNOde50 are really unusual, how did you develop this and why do you think it is so successful?

DA: All the UNOde50 stores offer a unique experience around the jewellery – a space with an original and personalized personality, that combines a cosmopolitan, bright and urban atmosphere with original fixtures selected from antique stores all around the world and artworks created by the creative team of the brand.

We also contrast the look of oak and walnut tree woods with metal and leather details to wrap the customers in the UNOde50 universe. Our visual merchandising strategy is focused to emphasise each piece of jewellery, as well as offering customers the possibility to mix and match different pieces.

Q: Your point of sale is also unusual, how has this worked in the UK and what are retailers’ reactions to it?

DA: Our brand more than unusual, it is exclusive and unique. People who like our brand or buy their first piece get addicted and become collectors. We consider ourselves affordable luxury. Every single piece is handmade in Spain, and we prefer quality over margins, which is something we are very proud of it. When you buy UNOde50 you are buying a combination of design and quality; a piece with character that you don’t find elsewhere.

07012015A_0035

Q: Which pieces or designs are the most popular?

DA: The common trait across all creations is the use of a metal alloy that brings the Brand’s exclusive designs to life, giving them that special hand-crafted texture. Unode50 pieces mix silver with other materials such as leather, Swarovski crystal, handmade crystal and pearls, but our clients most associate the brand with key pieces in silver and leather, which are our bestsellers all over the world.

Q: Are there any product areas that you are developing at the moment, or any new collections that are proving popular?

DA: The brand’s latest novelty is a line in gold, which offers further proof of the tireless innovative spirit that characterises UNOde50’s design team. We also believe in our Man collection, as one of the strengths of UNOde50 is that its products can be consider unisex. We do believe in the increasing desire among men to wear accessories, and we will develop this line with new designs for 2017.

Q: What are your impressions of International Jewellery London and has the show been helpful to your growth ambitions?

DA: This is going to be our second year doing IJL. It is the most important jewellery show in the UK and we have to be present at the top jewellery show in the UK! We hope to have a good show, as we have a great booth in a premium location. We want to surprise our existing customers and attract good new customers.

Q: What are your aims for 2016, are there any retailers or types of retailers you are targeting?

DA: The strategy is clear. UNOde50 is very new but the team has been together now for a year. We have to open the best retailers in every neighbourhood. However, our product fits different kind of boutiques, so our main goal is to partner with major groups, department stores and independent jewellers with a modern look. High apparel and gift boutiques are also our target.

IMG_1626

Discover more about UNOde50 at IJL 2016 from 4th-6th September at Stand E50.

Pioneering Jewellery entrepreneurship for fashion students

United by a shared desire to encourage creativity and entrepreneurship in a new generation of jewellery talent, full-service provider Fab Atelier and market intelligence agency Adorn Insight are delighted to announce the UK launch of their Jewellery Mentoring Program – a collaborative initiative to launch designers who are yet to establish their brand in the marketplace.

The innovative concept sees designers throughout Europe invited to submit their jewellery designs to the Fab Atelier website. Five successful designers will win a year’s one-to-one mentoring from Adorn Insight during which time each individual’s commercial objectives – from collection design to marketing and branding – will be pinpointed and worked towards.

From Fab Atelier, the designers will receive support in financing, production management, PR and sales. Furthermore, Fab Atelier will double the funds raised through crowdfunding and produce a collection of 4-12 saleable pieces. There is no financial outlay required by the five designers whose collections will be produced during October ready for sale in December. They will receive a percentage of the sales (up to 20%) and still own all copyrights.

In addition, a further 20 designers will be invited to a 3-day workshop at Werkstätte Wattens in Austria to explore new techniques and materials.

Entries are welcome from students at design schools across Europe and an initial piece (or pieces) – valued at £35-£350 – should be submitted by Monday 11 July 2016.

Shortlisted designers will be announced on 18 July and will be invited to design a collection of 4-12 pieces by 29 August. The five winning designers will be announced on 8 September and will begin the mentoring program on 30 September in Wattens.

For full details of how to enter, see Fab Atelier’s website: Fab-Atelier.com

Background

Fab Atelier’s raison d’être is enabling designers.  Fab Atelier believes that offering Designers the ability to build their brand at zero cost and zero risk will usher in a new normal in jewellery for consumers and designers.

Adorn Insight, industry specialists in how to produce commercially viable jewellery at the right place and the right time, are partnering with Fab Atelier to provide the mentorship to the five winning designers.

The NAJ and IJL team up for ChildLine charm competition

International Jewellery London has partnered with the National Association of Jewellers to launch a charity charm competition in aid of ChildLine. 

We’re on the hunt for two beautiful charms to sit alongside others pledged by a host of UK designers and brands. The final bracelet will be cast by Birmingham manufacturer Hockley Mint.

Those who’ve already pledged their time and creative talents to bring the bracelet to life include Sarah Jordan, Alexander Davis, Alexis Dove, Collette Waudby, Sarah Ho, Rachel Galley and Clogau.

Claire Hoyle, Head of Partnerships at the NSPCC, said: “We’re delighted to be partnering with the National Association of Jewellers and International Jewellery London to create a bespoke charm bracelet celebrating thirty years of ChildLine. Their tremendous support of our luxury Christmas gift auction and Christmas carols event will help us to be there for children when they need it most.”

Those who enter the competition to have their charm included on the bracelet also have the option of a loose pearl or diamond adornment, which have been donated by NAJ members Raw Pearls and Clark Diamonds of Birmingham.

Home - Route 1, version 1

A pearl of any colour up to 10mm in size can be used, while diamonds up to 30 points (or a single 30 point stone) can be featured in your design idea.

NAJ marketing manager Lindsey Straughton, said: “It is a pleasure to be working again with IJL and such talented British designers on such a worthy project. I know the bracelet will look beautiful and ChildLine will hopefully benefit from a very generous donation for this unique piece of jewellery. I encourage designers to enter this competition and use their imagination with the kindly donated materials. I look forward to reviewing the designs next month.”

Sam Willoughby, IJL Event Director added “We are delighted to be supporting such a great cause in recognition of ChildLine’s 30th year. It’s fantastic that so many designers are contributing their valuable time and talent and we can’t wait to see the results on show at IJL this year.”

The final bracelet will go up for auction at a glittering charity event at St Pauls Cathedral in early December, which will also feature a dinner and carole concert.

CRITERIA FOR ENTRY
· Any UK company designing and making in the UK may apply as well as UK students.
· The gifted charm is to be created in the designers own style and made in any colour or cartage of gold.
· It may incorporate stones or mixed media.

CLOSING DATE
· Closing date for entries is 13th June
· Drawings or CAD files submitted with entries need to be uploaded print ready at 300pdi at 10cm x 10cm
· Two winners will be announced on 14th June
· The finished charm will need to be delivered by 26th July
· The charm needs to be made and delivered to the NAJ , 10 Vyse Street, Birmingham B18 6LT

For more information on how to enter, click here

Q&A: Henry Deakin on new collections and Deakin & Francis’ 230th anniversary

Now in its 230th year, Deakin & Francis continues to impress its customers with imaginative collections, quality craftsmanship and an innovative approach to design.

Its emphasis on brand awareness in recent years has brought the company’s heritage into sharper focus, with managing director, Henry Deakin, predicting that 2016 is a year of exciting changes and growth for the business.

Here, Henry Deakin explains the brand’s new collections and highlights why he has chosen a more prominent stand at this year’s IJL…

Q: Can you tell us a little bit more about the new Fundamentals collection and how that has been received by your retail partners and customers?

HD: Our new Fundamentals collection has been developed, designed and crafted in truly innovative ways. You will find pieces that have been CAD manufactured and milled from individual pieces of metal, pieces that have been precision engineered and pieces that have been made using CAD assembly.
Split into five categories, the range offers something for everyone. From classic, timeless pieces with matching dress studs to quirky cufflinks through to highly engineered, mechanical designs that will amaze and astonish.

The Mechanicals category has been particularly well received. Inspired by everything that powers our world, from engines and cogs to motors and pumps, these are beautifully engineered. Our Sopwith Propeller cufflinks, for example, are made from aircraft grade aluminium. With internal ball bearings, the black cooling blades move as the highly polished blades spin around.

Even the rivets and joining panels have been laser detailed to the highest precision. Every detail is perfected and considered. Available in a range of finishes, at some very accessible price points, the feedback to date has been amazing.

Q: What have been your best-selling designs in recent months?

HD: We really do have such a diverse range, there is a design, style and price point for every taste and budget so we really do sell a complete mix of designs. We have been selling some super classic looks (RRP £75 – £150) – with Fundamentals receiving a lot of fantastic feedback and showing that stockists will restock when they sell product as it turns quickly and is a lot of fun – through to some super cool pieces (RRP £375+). However, we also sold a platinum, pave set of skull cufflinks for £13,000!

BMC0008C0001
Owl cufflinks from the Fundamentals collection

Q: You’ve added necklaces and rings to your women’s offer, how do you see this side of Deakin & Francis developing in the future?

HD: Women’s accessories have been a part of our collection for a while now – with a range of Sterling Silver rings and pendants that are complementary to our cufflinks. Cufflinks are without doubt the mainstay of Deakin & Francis – but we are always thinking ahead to our next design – so who knows where this might lead. We are all about continuing to design and make beautiful jewellery.

Q: What are your experiences of exhibiting at IJL and what are your impressions of the show?

HD: We have been exhibiting at IJL for over 30 years now so we see the show as a very valuable one to the industry – it’s a great way for us to showcase our complete collection and allows retailers to see everything in one place. It’s also a great chance to meet new retailers and see what is going on in the wider jewellery industry.

Q: What will you be presenting at this year’s show at Olympia Grand?

HD: We will be showcasing our innovative new Fundamentals collection. Plus we will have our core collection of sterling silver and gold cufflinks on display, together with our range of accessories – including some of our beautiful crystal glass decanters – it’s a great way to show retailers the whole collection in one go.

This year is also our impressive 230th anniversary – founded in 1786 – my brother James and I are immensely proud of our anniversary and the values and techniques installed by our ancestors. With the Fundamentals launch, as well as our luxurious new look book, we have also moved stands to a new prime position – so we are inviting retailers to come along and visit us at this year’s IJL to help us celebrate.

Q: What are your business aims for 2016 and beyond?

HD: In the past the company supplied some of the most famous, high-end jewellers without our name appearing on the product or box. We felt our heritage and quality meant we needed to address that. Now, our name appears on everything and we feel we are a desired brand – we are immensely proud of that. So plans for the next year are to continue to deliver a number one service, design and make beautiful jewellery and continue to grow the Deakin & Francis brand here in the UK and internationally.

2016 is a very special year for us, we are grateful to everyone who has supported us along the way. We want to continue to grow and seek new retail partners and support them. 2016 has already got off to a fantastic start, but we are planning on making this year a legendary year, so watch this space to see what else we have ‘up our sleeves!’

Henry and James Deakin
Henry Deakin (left) and James Deakin of Deakin & Francis.

Discover more about Deakin & Francis at IJL 2016 from 4th-6th September at Stand C01

Inspire Insights: How UNOde50 is tackling the UK market

Spanish brand UNOde50 may have only been in the UK market for a short while, but its presence has been well and truly felt thanks to innovative visual merchandising techniques, unusual point of sale displays and accessible product lines.

Here, USA and UK wholesale director, David Azulay, explains what makes the brand unique, why its visual identity is so crucial, and what he is looking forward to about International Jewellery London later this year…

Q: How long has UNOde50 been in the UK market and how do you think the brand is progressing here?

DA: UNOde50 has been in the UK since 2015. The brand has a great potential and we are happy because we have a very positive start. The situation of the retail industry in the UK is not good or as good as it is used to be, but, for UNOde50, the United Kingdom is a key market and we have plans for expansion in both retail and wholesale.

Q: You opened a store on Regent Street last year, how has this been for brand awareness in the UK market?

DA: The store is doing well as it is in a perfect location for us. The footfall is good, and people from all over the world visit the street every day, as well as a lot of locals who visit our store regularly. It offers great exposure for the brand, but we haven’t stopped there. We are looking for new stores on the King’s Road and in Covent Garden to increase our presence.

Q: The visual identity and visual merchandising techniques of UNOde50 are really unusual, how did you develop this and why do you think it is so successful?

DA: All the UNOde50 stores offer a unique experience around the jewellery – a space with an original and personalized personality, that combines a cosmopolitan, bright and urban atmosphere with original fixtures selected from antique stores all around the world and artworks created by the creative team of the brand.

We also contrast the look of oak and walnut tree woods with metal and leather details to wrap the customers in the UNOde50 universe. Our visual merchandising strategy is focused to emphasise each piece of jewellery, as well as offering customers the possibility to mix and match different pieces.

Q: Your point of sale is also unusual, how has this worked in the UK and what are retailers’ reactions to it?

DA: Our brand more than unusual, it is exclusive and unique. People who like our brand or buy their first piece get addicted and become collectors. We consider ourselves affordable luxury. Every single piece is handmade in Spain, and we prefer quality over margins, which is something we are very proud of it. When you buy UNOde50 you are buying a combination of design and quality; a piece with character that you don’t find elsewhere.

07012015A_0035

Q: Which pieces or designs are the most popular?

DA: The common trait across all creations is the use of a metal alloy that brings the Brand’s exclusive designs to life, giving them that special hand-crafted texture. Unode50 pieces mix silver with other materials such as leather, Swarovski crystal, handmade crystal and pearls, but our clients most associate the brand with key pieces in silver and leather, which are our bestsellers all over the world.

Q: Are there any product areas that you are developing at the moment, or any new collections that are proving popular?

DA: The brand’s latest novelty is a line in gold, which offers further proof of the tireless innovative spirit that characterises UNOde50’s design team. We also believe in our Man collection, as one of the strengths of UNOde50 is that its products can be consider unisex. We do believe in the increasing desire among men to wear accessories, and we will develop this line with new designs for 2017.

Q: What are your impressions of International Jewellery London and has the show been helpful to your growth ambitions?

DA: This is going to be our second year doing IJL. It is the most important jewellery show in the UK and we have to be present at the top jewellery show in the UK! We hope to have a good show, as we have a great booth in a premium location. We want to surprise our existing customers and attract good new customers.

Q: What are your aims for 2016, are there any retailers or types of retailers you are targeting?

DA: The strategy is clear. UNOde50 is very new but the team has been together now for a year. We have to open the best retailers in every neighbourhood. However, our product fits different kind of boutiques, so our main goal is to partner with major groups, department stores and independent jewellers with a modern look. High apparel and gift boutiques are also our target.

IMG_1626

Discover more about UNOde50 at IJL 2016 from 4th-6th September at Stand E50.

Pioneering Jewellery entrepreneurship for fashion students

United by a shared desire to encourage creativity and entrepreneurship in a new generation of jewellery talent, full-service provider Fab Atelier and market intelligence agency Adorn Insight are delighted to announce the UK launch of their Jewellery Mentoring Program – a collaborative initiative to launch designers who are yet to establish their brand in the marketplace.

The innovative concept sees designers throughout Europe invited to submit their jewellery designs to the Fab Atelier website. Five successful designers will win a year’s one-to-one mentoring from Adorn Insight during which time each individual’s commercial objectives – from collection design to marketing and branding – will be pinpointed and worked towards.

From Fab Atelier, the designers will receive support in financing, production management, PR and sales. Furthermore, Fab Atelier will double the funds raised through crowdfunding and produce a collection of 4-12 saleable pieces. There is no financial outlay required by the five designers whose collections will be produced during October ready for sale in December. They will receive a percentage of the sales (up to 20%) and still own all copyrights.

In addition, a further 20 designers will be invited to a 3-day workshop at Werkstätte Wattens in Austria to explore new techniques and materials.

Entries are welcome from students at design schools across Europe and an initial piece (or pieces) – valued at £35-£350 – should be submitted by Monday 11 July 2016.

Shortlisted designers will be announced on 18 July and will be invited to design a collection of 4-12 pieces by 29 August. The five winning designers will be announced on 8 September and will begin the mentoring program on 30 September in Wattens.

For full details of how to enter, see Fab Atelier’s website: Fab-Atelier.com

Background

Fab Atelier’s raison d’être is enabling designers.  Fab Atelier believes that offering Designers the ability to build their brand at zero cost and zero risk will usher in a new normal in jewellery for consumers and designers.

Adorn Insight, industry specialists in how to produce commercially viable jewellery at the right place and the right time, are partnering with Fab Atelier to provide the mentorship to the five winning designers.

The NAJ and IJL team up for ChildLine charm competition

International Jewellery London has partnered with the National Association of Jewellers to launch a charity charm competition in aid of ChildLine. 

We’re on the hunt for two beautiful charms to sit alongside others pledged by a host of UK designers and brands. The final bracelet will be cast by Birmingham manufacturer Hockley Mint.

Those who’ve already pledged their time and creative talents to bring the bracelet to life include Sarah Jordan, Alexander Davis, Alexis Dove, Collette Waudby, Sarah Ho, Rachel Galley and Clogau.

Claire Hoyle, Head of Partnerships at the NSPCC, said: “We’re delighted to be partnering with the National Association of Jewellers and International Jewellery London to create a bespoke charm bracelet celebrating thirty years of ChildLine. Their tremendous support of our luxury Christmas gift auction and Christmas carols event will help us to be there for children when they need it most.”

Those who enter the competition to have their charm included on the bracelet also have the option of a loose pearl or diamond adornment, which have been donated by NAJ members Raw Pearls and Clark Diamonds of Birmingham.

Home - Route 1, version 1

A pearl of any colour up to 10mm in size can be used, while diamonds up to 30 points (or a single 30 point stone) can be featured in your design idea.

NAJ marketing manager Lindsey Straughton, said: “It is a pleasure to be working again with IJL and such talented British designers on such a worthy project. I know the bracelet will look beautiful and ChildLine will hopefully benefit from a very generous donation for this unique piece of jewellery. I encourage designers to enter this competition and use their imagination with the kindly donated materials. I look forward to reviewing the designs next month.”

Sam Willoughby, IJL Event Director added “We are delighted to be supporting such a great cause in recognition of ChildLine’s 30th year. It’s fantastic that so many designers are contributing their valuable time and talent and we can’t wait to see the results on show at IJL this year.”

The final bracelet will go up for auction at a glittering charity event at St Pauls Cathedral in early December, which will also feature a dinner and carole concert.

CRITERIA FOR ENTRY
· Any UK company designing and making in the UK may apply as well as UK students.
· The gifted charm is to be created in the designers own style and made in any colour or cartage of gold.
· It may incorporate stones or mixed media.

CLOSING DATE
· Closing date for entries is 13th June
· Drawings or CAD files submitted with entries need to be uploaded print ready at 300pdi at 10cm x 10cm
· Two winners will be announced on 14th June
· The finished charm will need to be delivered by 26th July
· The charm needs to be made and delivered to the NAJ , 10 Vyse Street, Birmingham B18 6LT

For more information on how to enter, click here