#IJL2019 Day One – The Highlights!

#IJL2019 Day One – The Highlights!

International jewellery London 2019 is open! Jewellery professionals filled the halls all looking to be inspired and discover the latest trends from the best of British fine jewellery and the leading brands from around the globe.  Here is a look ... Read More
#IJL2019 Day One – The Highlights!

#IJL2019 Day One – The Highlights!

International jewellery London 2019 is open! Jewellery professionals filled the halls all looking to be inspired and discover the latest trends from the best of British fine jewellery and the leading brands from around the globe.  Here is a look ... Read More

Jewellery and Watch sector forecast to reach £5.9 billion sales in 2019, says Mintel

Increased focus from buyers on sustainability and ethics

New Mintel research shows the Jewellery and Watch industry was worth £5.7 billion in 2018, and is anticipated to rise to £5.9 billion in 2019.

The new Mintel jewellery research will be revealed exclusively at International Jewellery London, the UK’s leading jewellery trade event, 1-3 September.

According to Mintel’s upcoming Jewellery and Watches Retailing UK 2019 report, demand for jewellery and watches in the UK has remained robust, with sales reaching £5.7 billion in 2018, up 2.9% from 2017. The market is expected to show even stronger growth in 2019, rising an estimated 3.5% to £5.9 billion.

Mintel’s report also demonstrates that sustainability and ethics are top of mind for 55% of UK jewellery buyers who say it’s important for them that the jewellery and watches they purchase are made ethically.

Chana Baram, Retail Analyst at Mintel said:

“While many UK high-street fashion retailers are facing very public struggles, demand for jewellery and watches in the UK has remained robust and is expected to show even stronger growth in 2019. Demand for high jewellery has been a driver of this growth, as customers have moved away from cheaper branded jewellery and are looking for keepsakes and investment pieces. Meanwhile, there is an increased desire from younger consumers for bespoke jewellery pieces as well as a continued interest in the demi-fine category – which is more accessible and youthful than fine jewellery. In addition, sustainability and diversity have become top of mind for consumers, so jewellery brands and retailers have an opportunity to put ethical values at the core of their business.”

Simon Forrester, Chief Executive at the National Association of Jewellers said:

“We are pleased to see that Mintel’s data shows growth, but also important we understand exactly where that growth is given continuing tough trading conditions, particularly on the high street. As the industry association for the UK jewellery trade, we’re determined to increase opportunities for more people to buy more jewellery, more often, whether a small treat or a long-term investment piece. As a collective, the more informed we are about who is buying and why, means we can all work together to inspire and educate returning customers as well as attract new ones.”

Katie Morris, Events Director, International Jewellery London (IJL) said: “It is fantastic to see success thriving in the Watch and Jewellery sector, while the industry continues to innovate to become more sustainable. For IJL this is one of our biggest years yet, with more exhibitors, retailers and buyers attending from the UK and internationally, including from China, Canada and Middle East. Watches are recognised as a major attraction for buyers with a dedicated Watch District at the front of the show, while sustainability is a focal point in our IJL Inspire Seminars series, with sustainable coral, Fairtrade gold and responsibly mined gemstones featuring on the stage.

IJL Inspired: Interview with Isabella Lui

Isabella Liu is a leading jewellery designer and artist. She was born in Wuhan, China, and currently based in London. Isabella commenced the BA in Jewellery Design and Related Products at Birmingham City University’s School of Jewellery, and MA in Arts and Cultural Management at King’s College London.

In 2014, Isabella founded her design studio in London. 2016 she stablishes jewellery consultancy business with Chairman of British Silver Festival Gordon Hamme. As ‘The Jeweller’ Magazine from National Association of Jewellers reported, ‘Isabella Liu – bringing China and Britain together’.

We caught up with this amazing designer to talk about her work, inspirations and what you can expect to see from the brand at IJL 2019.

What has this year been like for Isabella Lui and what have been your most successful collections?

This year has been a very fruitful year for Isabella Lui, with lots of progress. Our production has become stronger and stronger. We just launched a very beautiful collection at CMJ, which captured lots of attention. We have launched our official website with e-commerce and an international payments system. Most importantly, we are growing stronger and bigger in the market.

My collections are divided into two categories: one is jewellery, and the other is art. They have a beautiful story, and a profound concept. Some collections are successful for their creative originality; other collections have a strong commercial impact. Following the success of the Twilight collection, launched at the Zaha Hadid Gallery, there is no doubt that Butterfly Lovers collection will make a big impact! The collection is made with white rhodium-plated silver, set with handcrafted gemstones, including jade and mother-of-pearl. Thoughtfully designed, this collection is a celebration of purity, faith and love.

What are your top jewellery trend tips for the approaching spring season?

Since the jewellery trade is highly competitive. I think customers are already tired of low level fashion jewellery on the high street. They are always looking for something to touch their heart — something out of ordinary. Thus the design concept needs to be strong. Secondly, nature is a top jewellery trend for the approaching spring season. I think the success of the Butterfly Lovers collection is in using universal language to celebrate nature and love. 

Where do you draw inspiration from?

As a designer, I draw inspiration from the universe, nature, different forms of art, my experiences travelling, and philosophy of life. Jewellery is a form of my expression, a mirror of my heart and emotions. People normally can feel the spirit of my creations. The Butterfly Lovers collection is inspired by Nature. This collection draws on the classic Chinese legend of two lovers, Liang Shanbo and Zhu Yingtai, the Chinese “Romeo and Juliet”. In this the tale the lovers spirits merge in the form of a pair of butterflies, which fly away together, never to be separated again. This epic story has inspired musicians, artists and performers. I have captured the essence of this love story, with its passionate narrative, in the creation of the Butterfly Lovers collection – delicately recreating the drama with beautiful colours and textures. Chinese folklore is translated into contemporary sculptural design.

When did you first discover your love of jewellery and design?

I came from an arts and culture focused background. I was trained as an oil painter when I was young. I knew from very beginning that I would work in the arts and the creative industries, maybe dealing with different forms of creativity. I transferred my fine arts background to jewellery design when I was 20. I met my first jewellery design teacher who encouraged me to explore myself through jewellery. I was fascinated with different metalssmiths, and narrative expressions.

What is it like to run such a successful, award-winning jewellery business?

It has been a wonderful experience for me. As a designer, it has never been an easy path to be a creative entrepreneur to run my own business. I always try to learn and balance the value of creativity and commerce. My business mission and vision, was inspired from my learning experiences at Tate Modern. I found that this organisation is so embracing; it was my first time seeing so many children running around this world famous museum like a playground. When I looked at their slogan, “let arts embrace everybody” I was so inspired. I embedded this concept to my jewellery business as well. I always try to deliver the finest craftsmanship and design that I can, with supportive commercial thinking. I follow my 3 Ps: Profession, Passion, and Power. I love to see people find their joy, love, and self-satisfaction. I think this is the power of a creative person running a jewellery brand. Although I don’t come from a business school, I do deliver and pass on my spirits. I inspire women to be their own legends!

Which celebrity would you love to see wearing your jewellery?

I would love to see Lady Gaga wear my jewellery. Lady Gaga is an inspirational artist. Earlier in her career, she seemed to have no boundaries at all, but actually she is a super creative person with humanity and a deep, broad heart. I love both her early and her current work. Likewise, I have made very artistic bold jewellery, as well as commercial thought-provoking jewellery. My jewellery journey has become broader and wider and longer alongside with my raised awareness. 

If you had to summarise Isabella Lui in a couple of sentences, what would you say?

ISABELLA LIU is a London based designer brand, inspiring women to become their own legends!

What can people expect to see from Isabella Liu Jewellery at IJL this year?

I will present five international award-winning collections at IJL this year, including the ‘Scar is No More a Scar’ from my arts category, and “Sea Rhymes”, “Twilight”, “Butterfly Reborn” and “Butterfly Lovers” collections from the jewellery category. You will see a contemporary, beautiful, and welcoming presentation for those collections. People will expect to taste uniqueness, freshness of my fine design and craftsmanship with supportive commercial thinking and attractive price points.

What has been the proudest moment in your jewellery career?

I am proud that I won seven international awards within one year in 2015, including three gold and two silver Goldsmiths’ Craft and Design Council Awards known as “Jewellery Oscar”, as well as two gold awards for best product and best new designer, at the 2015 Milan World Expo China-Italy. But I always live in the NOW. So I continue to grow as an international brand, creatively and commercially. I look back to my foot prints. I am proud of how much I have been through, and I appreciate my current moments the most!

Any advice to people starting out in their career in jewellery?

Firstly, I encourage emerging designers to try whatever they like, and to think outside of the box. Do not limit “design” as a form of skills or services. Design actually is a way of thinking, which includes creativity, aesthetics, and strategies. Thinking is much more important than skillsets. Especially for young people, never be afraid of making mistakes. The value of youth is that you can afford to make mistakes, and grow bigger and stronger from it. Secondly, evaluate where you are good at in jewellery. Some people are good at design, some are good at selling, some are good at communication. Evaluate your strength. Passion is important. Then you find your focus. Once you find your focus, just keep practising and keep the consistency.  

Raw Pearls Release Part 4 of Pearl Academy: Value Factors

Raw Pearls, one of 2019’s most celebrated pearl jewellery suppliers, have just released the fourth installment of their online training programme, Pearl Academy by Raw Pearls.

Part 4 is called ‘Value Factors’ and looks at the 7 main qualities that give pearls their value. These are: size, shape, colour, lustre, nacre thickness, surface quality and matching. Miranda Raw, Director at Raw Pearls, is the face of the series and explains exactly what to look for when assessing a pearl’s value.

The Christmas season is nearly upon us, and Raw Pearls want to help you with your pearl gift sales. Pearl Academy is free and available to all, and can be watched in bite sized chunks online. The accompanying notes are also perfect to keep on the shop floor for quick and easy reminders. Miranda said “This is one of the key chapters in the Pearl Academy series, sales staff need to be able to explain why one necklace, for example, is more expensive than another. We’ve broken it down to 7 key headings, so it’s really easy to understand and to remember, giving a real sense of transparency to the dialog between staff and customer.”

Access Pearl Academy on Raw Pearls’ website https://www.rawpearls.com/services/pearl-training/

World-Renowned British Designer Solange Azagury-Partridge Announced as Keynote Speaker for Getting Started 2020

Today the Goldsmiths’ Centre, the UK’s leading charity for the professional training of goldsmiths, announced world-renowned British designer Solange Azagury-Partridge as its keynote speaker for its prestigious business taster programme, Getting Started 2020. Renowned for her jewellery and interior designs, Solange will be in conversation with 30 of the most talented recent UK graduates from a Precious Metal or related course about how she founded her successful brand, Solange, and what it is like to be the owner of two major boutiques in London and New York.

Applications for Getting Started 2020 close on Sunday 6 October 2019. This free week-long introduction to business course helps emerging designer makers in jewellery and silversmithing to get to grips with setting up in business. The course covers topics from understanding target markets, developing brand stories to successfully preparing for a fair, pop-up or show. Through immersive workshops and presentations, industry experts give the benefit of their experiences and participants are provided with the latest consumer insights through access to The Goldsmiths’ Company’s research findings. The course culminates in a special industry networking evening where participants can apply all their learnings from the week, building their industry connections and showcasing their latest work.

Chris Oliver, Head of Professional Training for the Goldsmiths’ Centre commented: “Getting Started is an intensive business training course tailored for jewellers and silversmiths, packed with expert advice and tips helping them to launch their emerging businesses and careers. This year’s participants are going to benefit immensely learning first-hand as to what it takes to launch a successful career from guest speaker Solange Azagury-Partridge –who is one of the biggest names in British design.”

Getting Started 2019 participant Aurélie Dellasanta explains: “Getting Started was a great for preparing for IJL (International Jewellery London). I suddenly had an action plan, I was prepared mentally. It covered every aspect we needed.”

To apply or for more information on Getting Started 2020, visit www.goldsmiths-centre.org/courses/getting-started

Jewellery and Watch sector forecast to reach £5.9 billion sales in 2019, says Mintel

Increased focus from buyers on sustainability and ethics

New Mintel research shows the Jewellery and Watch industry was worth £5.7 billion in 2018, and is anticipated to rise to £5.9 billion in 2019.

The new Mintel jewellery research will be revealed exclusively at International Jewellery London, the UK’s leading jewellery trade event, 1-3 September.

According to Mintel’s upcoming Jewellery and Watches Retailing UK 2019 report, demand for jewellery and watches in the UK has remained robust, with sales reaching £5.7 billion in 2018, up 2.9% from 2017. The market is expected to show even stronger growth in 2019, rising an estimated 3.5% to £5.9 billion.

Mintel’s report also demonstrates that sustainability and ethics are top of mind for 55% of UK jewellery buyers who say it’s important for them that the jewellery and watches they purchase are made ethically.

Chana Baram, Retail Analyst at Mintel said:

“While many UK high-street fashion retailers are facing very public struggles, demand for jewellery and watches in the UK has remained robust and is expected to show even stronger growth in 2019. Demand for high jewellery has been a driver of this growth, as customers have moved away from cheaper branded jewellery and are looking for keepsakes and investment pieces. Meanwhile, there is an increased desire from younger consumers for bespoke jewellery pieces as well as a continued interest in the demi-fine category – which is more accessible and youthful than fine jewellery. In addition, sustainability and diversity have become top of mind for consumers, so jewellery brands and retailers have an opportunity to put ethical values at the core of their business.”

Simon Forrester, Chief Executive at the National Association of Jewellers said:

“We are pleased to see that Mintel’s data shows growth, but also important we understand exactly where that growth is given continuing tough trading conditions, particularly on the high street. As the industry association for the UK jewellery trade, we’re determined to increase opportunities for more people to buy more jewellery, more often, whether a small treat or a long-term investment piece. As a collective, the more informed we are about who is buying and why, means we can all work together to inspire and educate returning customers as well as attract new ones.”

Katie Morris, Events Director, International Jewellery London (IJL) said: “It is fantastic to see success thriving in the Watch and Jewellery sector, while the industry continues to innovate to become more sustainable. For IJL this is one of our biggest years yet, with more exhibitors, retailers and buyers attending from the UK and internationally, including from China, Canada and Middle East. Watches are recognised as a major attraction for buyers with a dedicated Watch District at the front of the show, while sustainability is a focal point in our IJL Inspire Seminars series, with sustainable coral, Fairtrade gold and responsibly mined gemstones featuring on the stage.

IJL Inspired: Interview with Isabella Lui

Isabella Liu is a leading jewellery designer and artist. She was born in Wuhan, China, and currently based in London. Isabella commenced the BA in Jewellery Design and Related Products at Birmingham City University’s School of Jewellery, and MA in Arts and Cultural Management at King’s College London.

In 2014, Isabella founded her design studio in London. 2016 she stablishes jewellery consultancy business with Chairman of British Silver Festival Gordon Hamme. As ‘The Jeweller’ Magazine from National Association of Jewellers reported, ‘Isabella Liu – bringing China and Britain together’.

We caught up with this amazing designer to talk about her work, inspirations and what you can expect to see from the brand at IJL 2019.

What has this year been like for Isabella Lui and what have been your most successful collections?

This year has been a very fruitful year for Isabella Lui, with lots of progress. Our production has become stronger and stronger. We just launched a very beautiful collection at CMJ, which captured lots of attention. We have launched our official website with e-commerce and an international payments system. Most importantly, we are growing stronger and bigger in the market.

My collections are divided into two categories: one is jewellery, and the other is art. They have a beautiful story, and a profound concept. Some collections are successful for their creative originality; other collections have a strong commercial impact. Following the success of the Twilight collection, launched at the Zaha Hadid Gallery, there is no doubt that Butterfly Lovers collection will make a big impact! The collection is made with white rhodium-plated silver, set with handcrafted gemstones, including jade and mother-of-pearl. Thoughtfully designed, this collection is a celebration of purity, faith and love.

What are your top jewellery trend tips for the approaching spring season?

Since the jewellery trade is highly competitive. I think customers are already tired of low level fashion jewellery on the high street. They are always looking for something to touch their heart — something out of ordinary. Thus the design concept needs to be strong. Secondly, nature is a top jewellery trend for the approaching spring season. I think the success of the Butterfly Lovers collection is in using universal language to celebrate nature and love. 

Where do you draw inspiration from?

As a designer, I draw inspiration from the universe, nature, different forms of art, my experiences travelling, and philosophy of life. Jewellery is a form of my expression, a mirror of my heart and emotions. People normally can feel the spirit of my creations. The Butterfly Lovers collection is inspired by Nature. This collection draws on the classic Chinese legend of two lovers, Liang Shanbo and Zhu Yingtai, the Chinese “Romeo and Juliet”. In this the tale the lovers spirits merge in the form of a pair of butterflies, which fly away together, never to be separated again. This epic story has inspired musicians, artists and performers. I have captured the essence of this love story, with its passionate narrative, in the creation of the Butterfly Lovers collection – delicately recreating the drama with beautiful colours and textures. Chinese folklore is translated into contemporary sculptural design.

When did you first discover your love of jewellery and design?

I came from an arts and culture focused background. I was trained as an oil painter when I was young. I knew from very beginning that I would work in the arts and the creative industries, maybe dealing with different forms of creativity. I transferred my fine arts background to jewellery design when I was 20. I met my first jewellery design teacher who encouraged me to explore myself through jewellery. I was fascinated with different metalssmiths, and narrative expressions.

What is it like to run such a successful, award-winning jewellery business?

It has been a wonderful experience for me. As a designer, it has never been an easy path to be a creative entrepreneur to run my own business. I always try to learn and balance the value of creativity and commerce. My business mission and vision, was inspired from my learning experiences at Tate Modern. I found that this organisation is so embracing; it was my first time seeing so many children running around this world famous museum like a playground. When I looked at their slogan, “let arts embrace everybody” I was so inspired. I embedded this concept to my jewellery business as well. I always try to deliver the finest craftsmanship and design that I can, with supportive commercial thinking. I follow my 3 Ps: Profession, Passion, and Power. I love to see people find their joy, love, and self-satisfaction. I think this is the power of a creative person running a jewellery brand. Although I don’t come from a business school, I do deliver and pass on my spirits. I inspire women to be their own legends!

Which celebrity would you love to see wearing your jewellery?

I would love to see Lady Gaga wear my jewellery. Lady Gaga is an inspirational artist. Earlier in her career, she seemed to have no boundaries at all, but actually she is a super creative person with humanity and a deep, broad heart. I love both her early and her current work. Likewise, I have made very artistic bold jewellery, as well as commercial thought-provoking jewellery. My jewellery journey has become broader and wider and longer alongside with my raised awareness. 

If you had to summarise Isabella Lui in a couple of sentences, what would you say?

ISABELLA LIU is a London based designer brand, inspiring women to become their own legends!

What can people expect to see from Isabella Liu Jewellery at IJL this year?

I will present five international award-winning collections at IJL this year, including the ‘Scar is No More a Scar’ from my arts category, and “Sea Rhymes”, “Twilight”, “Butterfly Reborn” and “Butterfly Lovers” collections from the jewellery category. You will see a contemporary, beautiful, and welcoming presentation for those collections. People will expect to taste uniqueness, freshness of my fine design and craftsmanship with supportive commercial thinking and attractive price points.

What has been the proudest moment in your jewellery career?

I am proud that I won seven international awards within one year in 2015, including three gold and two silver Goldsmiths’ Craft and Design Council Awards known as “Jewellery Oscar”, as well as two gold awards for best product and best new designer, at the 2015 Milan World Expo China-Italy. But I always live in the NOW. So I continue to grow as an international brand, creatively and commercially. I look back to my foot prints. I am proud of how much I have been through, and I appreciate my current moments the most!

Any advice to people starting out in their career in jewellery?

Firstly, I encourage emerging designers to try whatever they like, and to think outside of the box. Do not limit “design” as a form of skills or services. Design actually is a way of thinking, which includes creativity, aesthetics, and strategies. Thinking is much more important than skillsets. Especially for young people, never be afraid of making mistakes. The value of youth is that you can afford to make mistakes, and grow bigger and stronger from it. Secondly, evaluate where you are good at in jewellery. Some people are good at design, some are good at selling, some are good at communication. Evaluate your strength. Passion is important. Then you find your focus. Once you find your focus, just keep practising and keep the consistency.  

Raw Pearls Release Part 4 of Pearl Academy: Value Factors

Raw Pearls, one of 2019’s most celebrated pearl jewellery suppliers, have just released the fourth installment of their online training programme, Pearl Academy by Raw Pearls.

Part 4 is called ‘Value Factors’ and looks at the 7 main qualities that give pearls their value. These are: size, shape, colour, lustre, nacre thickness, surface quality and matching. Miranda Raw, Director at Raw Pearls, is the face of the series and explains exactly what to look for when assessing a pearl’s value.

The Christmas season is nearly upon us, and Raw Pearls want to help you with your pearl gift sales. Pearl Academy is free and available to all, and can be watched in bite sized chunks online. The accompanying notes are also perfect to keep on the shop floor for quick and easy reminders. Miranda said “This is one of the key chapters in the Pearl Academy series, sales staff need to be able to explain why one necklace, for example, is more expensive than another. We’ve broken it down to 7 key headings, so it’s really easy to understand and to remember, giving a real sense of transparency to the dialog between staff and customer.”

Access Pearl Academy on Raw Pearls’ website https://www.rawpearls.com/services/pearl-training/

World-Renowned British Designer Solange Azagury-Partridge Announced as Keynote Speaker for Getting Started 2020

Today the Goldsmiths’ Centre, the UK’s leading charity for the professional training of goldsmiths, announced world-renowned British designer Solange Azagury-Partridge as its keynote speaker for its prestigious business taster programme, Getting Started 2020. Renowned for her jewellery and interior designs, Solange will be in conversation with 30 of the most talented recent UK graduates from a Precious Metal or related course about how she founded her successful brand, Solange, and what it is like to be the owner of two major boutiques in London and New York.

Applications for Getting Started 2020 close on Sunday 6 October 2019. This free week-long introduction to business course helps emerging designer makers in jewellery and silversmithing to get to grips with setting up in business. The course covers topics from understanding target markets, developing brand stories to successfully preparing for a fair, pop-up or show. Through immersive workshops and presentations, industry experts give the benefit of their experiences and participants are provided with the latest consumer insights through access to The Goldsmiths’ Company’s research findings. The course culminates in a special industry networking evening where participants can apply all their learnings from the week, building their industry connections and showcasing their latest work.

Chris Oliver, Head of Professional Training for the Goldsmiths’ Centre commented: “Getting Started is an intensive business training course tailored for jewellers and silversmiths, packed with expert advice and tips helping them to launch their emerging businesses and careers. This year’s participants are going to benefit immensely learning first-hand as to what it takes to launch a successful career from guest speaker Solange Azagury-Partridge –who is one of the biggest names in British design.”

Getting Started 2019 participant Aurélie Dellasanta explains: “Getting Started was a great for preparing for IJL (International Jewellery London). I suddenly had an action plan, I was prepared mentally. It covered every aspect we needed.”

To apply or for more information on Getting Started 2020, visit www.goldsmiths-centre.org/courses/getting-started