Blog Modules

The Essential SS18 Catwalk Jewellery Report

Trends

The Essential SS18 Catwalk Jewellery Report

The month of September heralded the debut of spring/summer 2018 collections from a stream of fashion designers in London, Paris, Milan and New York. And the runways’ romance with statement jewellery was far from over. Mammoth earrings remained – quite ... Read More
The Essential SS18 Catwalk Jewellery Report

Trends

The Essential SS18 Catwalk Jewellery Report

The month of September heralded the debut of spring/summer 2018 collections from a stream of fashion designers in London, Paris, Milan and New York. And the runways’ romance with statement jewellery was far from over. Mammoth earrings remained – quite ... Read More

Blog, Industry, News, Uncategorized

Investment Jewellery in the Spotlight at London Auctions

by David Brough • • 2 Comments

For those in the know, the month of June means a plethora of auctions, hosted by some of the most prestigious London auction houses.

This year, it was extremely rare signed jewellery pieces that secured the most furious bidding, with many reflecting the importance of family heirlooms passed down from one generation to the next.

2018 appears to be the year of the tiara and the brooch, with both types of jewellery fetching sale prices far above their pre-sale estimates at the Christie’s and Sotheby’s London sales.

Lots 377-378 - 1930s sapphire and diamond bracelet, Cartier + ring
A 1930s sapphire and diamond bracelet and ring by Cartier. As sold by Sotheby’s in London.

What makes a piece of jewellery collectable? Rarity is perhaps the most important condition for a piece of jewellery to become an investment, followed by its intrinsic beauty. Jewellery from certain periods do better than others. Art Deco pieces saw exceptional demand at the auction sales, as collectors are captivated by the unique, often geometric designs of that era.

Another popular era for investment jewellery is the Belle Époque, a period of optimism before the First World War. Signed, or branded, jewellery is more collectable than unbranded pieces, with certain houses particularly sought after, namely Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels.

Related Blogs: The 10 Most Popular Jewellery Designs that Continue to Sell

Kristian Spofforth, head of the sales department at Sotheby’s in London, commented: “Items with royal provenance always perform well and with attractive estimates the pieces from the collection of King Farouk were no exception: great pieces achieve great results.”

Spofforth was referring to a selection of items formerly in the collection of Egypt’s King Farouk, which achieved big multiples of their pre-sale estimates at Sotheby’s sale on June 6.

Related Blogs: Bridal Jewellery Trends Inspired by Prince Harry and Meghan Markle

A diamond brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels, formerly in the collection of King Farouk, which was designed as a bird perched on a coral branch, garnered a hammer price of £10,000, soaring above a pre-sale estimate of just £700-£1,500 (see picture below).

Van Cleef & Arpels - Diamond brooch designed as a bird perched on a coral branch - Fine Jewels London 6 May 18

How has the royal wedding influenced jewellery demand? Heirlooms such as tiaras have outperformed in the secondary market this year, helped no doubt by the fact that the Duchess of Sussex, Meghan Markle, wore a diamond tiara at her wedding to Prince Harry.

At the Christie’s London sale on June 13, a star lot was a Belle Époque diamond tiara, offered with an extraordinary provenance and formerly the property of HRH The Crown Princess of Yugoslavia and from the collection of the Princes of Orléans Braganza.

With an estimate of £140,000-£210,000, this noble jewel saw competitive bidding and sold for £344,750.

Related Blogs: All that Glitters: Red Carpet Jewels from the Cannes Film Festival 2018

The sale presented a further selection of tiaras, which achieved outstanding results, including a late 19th century emerald and diamond tiara, with an estimate of £70,000-£90,000, which sold for £224,750.

Lot 129 - Tiara of diamond foliate design - Fine Jewels London 6 May 18
A diamond tiara sold at the Sotheby’s auction earlier this month.

Are we in a new era of brooches? At Christie’s, a late 19th century natural pearl and diamond brooch achieved a hammer price of £90,000, far above its estimate of £20,000-£30,000.

The final lot in the sale, a fine and rare Art Deco coral and diamond jabot pin by Cartier, fetched a hammer price of 1£75,000 pounds, around seven times its estimate.

“The jabot pin was fresh to the market and had an exquisite design,” said Keith Penton, who heads Christie’s London jewellery department.

Diamond Brooch, 1920s - Jewels Online
A diamond brooch from the 1920s.

Related Blogs: Geneva Auctions, Royal Weddings and Heirloom Jewels

What are the challenges in the investment market for jewellery? The market for collectable jewellery is far from perfect. Sometimes highly appealing pieces will fail to attract a buyer, and occasionally a collector will pick up a bargain if there is no competition for an item, and no reserve price.

At one recent auction, a sapphire and diamond ring by renowned brand Buccellati, sold for a hammer price of £1,300, well below its estimate of £4,000-£6,000.

IJL is #withyou offering international insights and auction results that reveal the highs, lows and opportunities for growth in our sparkling industry. Find out more about our 2018 exhibitors or contact a member of our team for more information. 

Disclaimer: this column should not be seen as advice or a recommendation for investment. Any opinions expressed are those of the author.

Main Image: Lot 14 – Diamond tiara, circa 1905, Sotheby’s

Blog, Industry, News, Products, Trends

International Focus: Geneva Auctions, Royal Weddings and Heirloom Jewels

by David Brough • • 2 Comments

Exceptional white and colour diamonds, as well as signed antique jewels, outperformed at the Sotheby’s and Christie’s magnificent jewellery auctions in Geneva on May 15-16.

The enduring popularity of heirlooms and signed antique pieces at the Geneva sales was also reflected at the Royal Wedding in Windsor, where Meghan Markle wore a diamond tiara loaned to her by the Queen, as well as a Cartier diamond bracelet and earrings.

In Geneva, a few days before the Royal Wedding, several antique Cartier pieces surpassed pre-sale estimates.

The Sotheby’s and Christie’s magnificent jewellery auctions in Geneva, held twice a year in May and November, serve as barometers for the sale of top tier gemstones and jewellery. The latest results were hugely positive – suggesting the market is holding firm despite international challenges.

A fancy intense purplish pink 8.52ct diamond ring sold also sold for a cool $6.275 million (£4.698m).
A fancy intense purplish pink 8.52ct diamond ring sold at Sotheby’s Geneva for a cool $6.275 million (£4.698m).

Read more: Stunning Jewellery and Eye-Catching Watches on the Oscars Red Carpet

The mood was buoyant as the Christie’s sale wrapped up the Geneva spring jewellery auction season on May 16, with rare diamonds, gemstones and jewels achieving remarkable prices, sometimes several times their estimates.

Meghan Markle’s choice of jewellery at her wedding to Prince Harry on May 19 reflected the lasting appeal of high quality heirlooms and branded items. She wore a tiara straight from the Queen’s collection, the Queen Mary Diamond Bandeau.

Queen Mary, wife of King George V, bought this diamond bandeau from London jeweller Garrard in 1925.

The Royal Wedding of Prince Harry and Meghan Markle Duke and Duchess of Sussex - Driving in the carriage through Windsor waving at crowds
Meghan Markle wore Queen Mary’s Diamond Bandeau tiara on her wedding day, loaned to her by Queen Elizabeth II. Image: Shutterstock.

Markle, now the Duchess of Sussex, wore delicate diamond stud earrings from the Galanterie de Cartier collection, as well as one simple diamond bracelet by the French design house, both in white gold and diamonds.

Read more: Bridal Jewellery Trends Inspired by Prince Harry and Meghan Markle

At the Geneva sales, heirlooms and Cartier pieces saw sturdy demand, emphasising the appeal to collectors of long-lasting quality in design, craftsmanship and materials.

Among the heirlooms, a star performer was a 1950s gem set and diamond demi-parure, ‘Zip’, by the French maison Van Cleef & Arpels, which went under the hammer for $410,000 (£306,900), soaring above its pre-sale estimate of $50,000-70,000 (£37,000-£52,000).

Van Cleef and Arpels Zip Sotheby's Geneva Auction May 2018
A Van Cleef & Arpels Zip necklace that performed strongly at Sotheby’s in Geneva.

“It is testimony that good quality jewels, that are well made, will do very well at auction,” said Daniela Mascetti, Sotheby’s Deputy Chairman Jewellery, Europe, after the sale.

She added: “Signed pieces went crazy. There were so many fantastic pieces, such as the ($)410,000 hammer (price) for Van Cleef & Arpels.”

At Christie’s, a coloured diamond, emerald, mother-of-pearl and diamond, ‘Les Oiseaux Liberes’ bangle by Cartier, achieved a hammer price of $660,000 (£494,309), well above its $200,000-300,000 (£149,000-£224,000) estimate.

International Focus: Thailand Aims to be Leading Gems and Jewellery Hub

An important late 19th century emerald and diamond necklace, by Tiffany & Co., which was originally sold by Christie’s New York over 20 years ago, netted $1.57 million (£1.175m), comfortably above its pre-sale estimate of $700,000-1.2 million (£524,000-£898,000).

Leading the Christie’s sale was a 50.47ct white diamond ring by Harry Winston, with a fantastic D colour, VVS1 clarity, which sold for $6.5 million (£4.867m).

The top lot at the Sotheby’s sale on May 15 was the historic 6.16ct Farnese Blue diamond, which had previously been in the hands of the same family for 300 years. It went for $6.7 million (£5.01m) to an anonymous buyer, well above estimate.

The Farnese Blue Diamond
The historic Farnese Blue diamond that once belonged to royalty.

Read more: The 5 Biggest Watch Trends to Shape Your 2018/19 Buying Decisions

Just as in the Christie’s sale, white diamonds did very well at Sotheby’s.

Two stones, each in excess of 50 carats, sold above their estimates. A 51.71ct round white diamond garnered $9.25 million, above its estimate of up to $9.1 million (£6.925m). A 50.39ct oval cut white diamond sold for $8.12 million (£6.07m), exceeding its estimate of up to $7.68 million (£5.75m) The Sotheby’s sale fetched $85.6 million (£64.09m) in total (see main image).

Read more: Heavenly Fine Jewellery from the Met Gala Red Carpet

Outside the Christie’s venue at the luxurious Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues, supercars, including top-of-the-range Ferraris, Mercedes and Porsches, lined up, and the chic restaurants nearby were full, underscoring the fabulous wealth of buyers attending the sale, which brought in $81.62 million (£61.1m).

Some of the world’s top diamond dealers, such as Oded Mansori, who specialises in rare stones in excess of 10 carats, participated in the sale.

“We’re pleased with the entire auction,” said Rahul Kadakia, the auctioneer in the sale of the top lots at Christie’s, which wrapped up soon before midnight after 12 hours of often frenzied bidding.

IJL is #withyou offering international insights and auction results that reveal the highs, lows and opportunities for growth in our sparkling industry. Find out more about our 2018 exhibitors or contact a member of our team for more information. 

Images courtesy of Sotheby’s – Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels May 18.

Blog, Industry, News, Products, Trends

All that Glitters: Red Carpet Jewels from the Cannes Film Festival 2018

by IJL • • 1 Comment

As the most glamorous celebration of film descended on the sparkling French Riviera, it was high jewellery and fine jewellery pieces that took centre stage, allowing A-list celebrities the chance to embellish their couture dresses perfectly. 

Here, we take a look at the top three trends from this year’s festival to discover how the lucky few will be shimmering throughout the summer. Drawing inspiration from these designs may offer some style direction for the upcoming buying season, or a flash of an idea for a new fine jewellery collection.

Top 3 Jewellery Trends of the Cannes Film Festival 2018

Natural Instincts

Nature-themed motifs were a huge trend on the red carpet; from the Boucheron diamond encrusted vine leaf ear cuffs seen on French actress, Lea Seydoux, to the precious Chopard butterfly wing rings that adorned Australian star, Cate Blanchett.

A post shared by Boucheron (@boucheron) on

Elsewhere, Bulgari impressed with variations of its iconic Serpenti design on the red carpet (loved by Bella Hadid, among others) and actress Jessica Chastain proved that marquise-cut diamonds are having a moment in a Piaget butterfly diamond ear cuff.

More abstract designs also proved popular, including diamond ‘cobwebs’ and statement diamond-studded angle wings… and let’s not forget actress Kristen Stewart’s statement diamond lion brooch by Chanel.

Don’t miss! Chopard’s new Orchid-inspired earrings, unveiled at Cannes, are a sight to behold.

A post shared by Chopard Official (@chopard) on

Ethical Designs

Atelier Swarvoski used the Cannes stage to launch its new collection of fine jewellery crafted in Fairtrade Gold. Actress Penelope Cruz unveiled the collection on the red carpet, wearing a pair of white gold earrings set with Swarvoski created rubies in the en-vogue ear-climber style.

A post shared by SWAROVSKI (@swarovski) on

Chopard also forged ahead with its ethical mission statement by showcasing new pieces in its ‘Green Carpet Collection’. Although a host of stars wore pieces from the brand, it was actress Julianne Moore’s responsibly sourced Paraiba tourmaline show-stopper that turned heads – just look at that neon blue hue!

A post shared by Julianne Moore (@juliannemoore) on

Coloured Gems

‘The brighter the rock, the better’ seemed to be the motto of this year’s festival! Pieces ranged from tutti-frutti arrangements to incredible (and in most cases extremely large) emeralds, sapphires, rubies and tourmalines. French model Carla Bruni wore a particularly impressive long-line diamond and sapphire necklace by Chopard that perfectly encapsulated the ‘more is more’ approach.

Emeralds were the clear winner in the style stakes, with the finest examples being presented by De Grisogono, Chopard and Chaumet. But don’t be expecting elegant emerald studs… pieces were oversized, creative and full of joie de vivre!

IJL is #withyou selecting key trends from high-profile events and distilling them for jewellers, brands and retailers, both in the UK and internationally. Discover the exhibitors who will present their fine jewellery creations at IJL 2018, here.

Title image: Shutterstock

Blog, News, People, Trends

Bridal Jewellery Trends Inspired by Prince Harry and Meghan Markle

by IJL • • 8 Comments

The Meghan Markle-effect isn’t just a flash-in-the-pan but a global phenomenon that’s shaping everything from dresses and cakes to jewellery and headpieces.

The traditional vision of a princess bride, akin to Grace Kelly, Princess Diana and Catherine Middleton, the Duchess of Cambridge, helps to fuel wedding conversations like nothing else.

Now is the time for jewellers to capitalise on these oh-so-important royal conversations and sell their find diamond pieces in the context Meghan’s awe-inspiring big day.

WATCH! The #IJL2018 Royal Wedding Special from Kensington Palace! 

For retailers and designer brands, we’ve rounded up the top bridal trends of 2018/2019 inspired by the royal couple. Although some trends have blossomed since Prince Harry popped the question, others are likely to continue to flourish as royal wedding fever takes hold of the next six months.

Bridal Jewellery Trends 2018/2019

Trilogy Rings 

Ever since Meghan flashed her three-diamond engagement ring, trilogies have been big news in the fine jewellery sphere. Meghan’s ring is set with a three carat cushion-cut centre stone, flanked by two smaller round-cut diamonds gifted to Prince Harry by Princess Diana.

Unsurprisingly, Meghan’s ring has encouraged brides-to-be to see trilogy rings in a new light, but perhaps the more exciting development is the fancy-cut centre solitaire, which may inspire a whole host of emerald, radiant, marquise, pear, oval and cushion cut designs, set alongside two ‘safer’ round brilliant cuts.

Plus, the heirloom quality of Harry’s bespoke engagement ring design is likely to remind future couples that sentimental stones and jewellery pieces can be repurposed for a new era. You can read more about this on Professional Jeweller.

Return of the Classics 

Royal weddings speak of tradition and grandeur, which is why so many classic silhouettes have sped back into fashion in recent months. Think nipped-in waists inspired by 1950s wedding dresses, lace, long veils that skim the floor, lengthy trains and, of course, classic jewellery pieces like diamond stud earrings, tennis bracelets, pearl strands and solitaire pendants.

Claudia Bradby of IJL 2018 exhibitor Claudia Bradby Jewellery is attending the big day and shared this image of her pearl choices on Instagram!

Champagne Shades

Although Meghan is expected to wear white, the current trend for champagne, pale peach, pink and lilac wedding dresses from the likes of Alice Temperley and Vera Wang should spur excitement among jewellers. Champagne diamonds, pastel shades of soft yellow, hints of pink and soft beige-brown diamonds could signal more adventurous fine and bridal jewellery options heading into autumn. Watch this space!

Statement Earrings 

With royal etiquette typically demanding longer sleeves, higher necklaces and a more modest approach to dressing, statement earrings really have chance to shine. As the summer wedding season approaches, retailers from international fashion brands to bespoke designer-makers may see renewed fervour for their tear-drop, chandelier and sleeper earrings that hint at a bold personality behind a demure dress.

The Contemporary Bride 

The fluff of taffeta and lace is contrasted with the elegance of bridal minimalism – think columns of silk skimming the floor without the usual beading, ruffles or sequins. Meghan Markle is expected to veer into this territory, unlike her sister-in-law Catherine, which means equally minimal jewellery is order of the day. Delicate diamond line necklaces, bezel-set diamond bracelets and simple pearls are likely to shine.

Heavenly Headpieces

Whenever a royal wedding approaches, thoughts turn to tiaras. Although it is unclear whether Meghan will wear a borrowed tiara from a member of the royal family, it is presumed that she will wear some kind of hair adornment. Catherine Middleton wore the Queen’s Cartier Halo Scroll Tiara for her wedding, so perhaps Meghan will follow in her footsteps?

Something Blue 

From Catherine Middleton’s blue sapphire to Princess Eugenie’s padparadscha sapphire – coloured gemstones are having a bridal moment. With the tradition for ‘something blue’, subtle cornflower blue sapphire pendants, stud earrings and hair pins are likely to make an appearance on aisles up-and-down the country. The ongoing obsession with pink diamonds at auction is also likely to make pink sapphire designs a coveted wedding day treat for brides.

Advertising your most traditional bridal designs in a host of bespoke colourways will no doubt spur the creativity in customers.

Bountiful Bows

Bows are big news in bridal… and they have been for decades. But what makes them new for 2018 is their sheer scale, with swathes of fabric at the base of the back, the waistline and neckline on couture wedding dresses (look to Viktor & Rolf, Lela Rose, Caroline Herrera and Reem Acra for inspiration).

In jewellery, Meghan may hint at this overarching trend with diamond-set bows by the likes of Garrard, or Queen Victoria’s trio of bow brooches that now belong to the queen.

With predictions flying across every air wave, it’s clear the world is counting down to discover what Meghan and her bridesmaids will wear on May 19. With the wedding expected to kick-off on Saturday at 12pm, the test for jewellers, manufacturers and brands will be how quick they can react, and how accurate their estimates of the market really were.

IJL is #withyou going behind-the-scenes of the most incredible moments in the global calendar. Find out more about What’s On at IJL 2018, visit our Trends Catwalk page, or contact a member of the team to find out more. 

Blog, Industry, News, Uncategorized

Investment Jewellery in the Spotlight at London Auctions

by David Brough • • 2 Comments

For those in the know, the month of June means a plethora of auctions, hosted by some of the most prestigious London auction houses.

This year, it was extremely rare signed jewellery pieces that secured the most furious bidding, with many reflecting the importance of family heirlooms passed down from one generation to the next.

2018 appears to be the year of the tiara and the brooch, with both types of jewellery fetching sale prices far above their pre-sale estimates at the Christie’s and Sotheby’s London sales.

Lots 377-378 - 1930s sapphire and diamond bracelet, Cartier + ring
A 1930s sapphire and diamond bracelet and ring by Cartier. As sold by Sotheby’s in London.

What makes a piece of jewellery collectable? Rarity is perhaps the most important condition for a piece of jewellery to become an investment, followed by its intrinsic beauty. Jewellery from certain periods do better than others. Art Deco pieces saw exceptional demand at the auction sales, as collectors are captivated by the unique, often geometric designs of that era.

Another popular era for investment jewellery is the Belle Époque, a period of optimism before the First World War. Signed, or branded, jewellery is more collectable than unbranded pieces, with certain houses particularly sought after, namely Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels.

Related Blogs: The 10 Most Popular Jewellery Designs that Continue to Sell

Kristian Spofforth, head of the sales department at Sotheby’s in London, commented: “Items with royal provenance always perform well and with attractive estimates the pieces from the collection of King Farouk were no exception: great pieces achieve great results.”

Spofforth was referring to a selection of items formerly in the collection of Egypt’s King Farouk, which achieved big multiples of their pre-sale estimates at Sotheby’s sale on June 6.

Related Blogs: Bridal Jewellery Trends Inspired by Prince Harry and Meghan Markle

A diamond brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels, formerly in the collection of King Farouk, which was designed as a bird perched on a coral branch, garnered a hammer price of £10,000, soaring above a pre-sale estimate of just £700-£1,500 (see picture below).

Van Cleef & Arpels - Diamond brooch designed as a bird perched on a coral branch - Fine Jewels London 6 May 18

How has the royal wedding influenced jewellery demand? Heirlooms such as tiaras have outperformed in the secondary market this year, helped no doubt by the fact that the Duchess of Sussex, Meghan Markle, wore a diamond tiara at her wedding to Prince Harry.

At the Christie’s London sale on June 13, a star lot was a Belle Époque diamond tiara, offered with an extraordinary provenance and formerly the property of HRH The Crown Princess of Yugoslavia and from the collection of the Princes of Orléans Braganza.

With an estimate of £140,000-£210,000, this noble jewel saw competitive bidding and sold for £344,750.

Related Blogs: All that Glitters: Red Carpet Jewels from the Cannes Film Festival 2018

The sale presented a further selection of tiaras, which achieved outstanding results, including a late 19th century emerald and diamond tiara, with an estimate of £70,000-£90,000, which sold for £224,750.

Lot 129 - Tiara of diamond foliate design - Fine Jewels London 6 May 18
A diamond tiara sold at the Sotheby’s auction earlier this month.

Are we in a new era of brooches? At Christie’s, a late 19th century natural pearl and diamond brooch achieved a hammer price of £90,000, far above its estimate of £20,000-£30,000.

The final lot in the sale, a fine and rare Art Deco coral and diamond jabot pin by Cartier, fetched a hammer price of 1£75,000 pounds, around seven times its estimate.

“The jabot pin was fresh to the market and had an exquisite design,” said Keith Penton, who heads Christie’s London jewellery department.

Diamond Brooch, 1920s - Jewels Online
A diamond brooch from the 1920s.

Related Blogs: Geneva Auctions, Royal Weddings and Heirloom Jewels

What are the challenges in the investment market for jewellery? The market for collectable jewellery is far from perfect. Sometimes highly appealing pieces will fail to attract a buyer, and occasionally a collector will pick up a bargain if there is no competition for an item, and no reserve price.

At one recent auction, a sapphire and diamond ring by renowned brand Buccellati, sold for a hammer price of £1,300, well below its estimate of £4,000-£6,000.

IJL is #withyou offering international insights and auction results that reveal the highs, lows and opportunities for growth in our sparkling industry. Find out more about our 2018 exhibitors or contact a member of our team for more information. 

Disclaimer: this column should not be seen as advice or a recommendation for investment. Any opinions expressed are those of the author.

Main Image: Lot 14 – Diamond tiara, circa 1905, Sotheby’s

Blog, Industry, News, Products, Trends

International Focus: Geneva Auctions, Royal Weddings and Heirloom Jewels

by David Brough • • 2 Comments

Exceptional white and colour diamonds, as well as signed antique jewels, outperformed at the Sotheby’s and Christie’s magnificent jewellery auctions in Geneva on May 15-16.

The enduring popularity of heirlooms and signed antique pieces at the Geneva sales was also reflected at the Royal Wedding in Windsor, where Meghan Markle wore a diamond tiara loaned to her by the Queen, as well as a Cartier diamond bracelet and earrings.

In Geneva, a few days before the Royal Wedding, several antique Cartier pieces surpassed pre-sale estimates.

The Sotheby’s and Christie’s magnificent jewellery auctions in Geneva, held twice a year in May and November, serve as barometers for the sale of top tier gemstones and jewellery. The latest results were hugely positive – suggesting the market is holding firm despite international challenges.

A fancy intense purplish pink 8.52ct diamond ring sold also sold for a cool $6.275 million (£4.698m).
A fancy intense purplish pink 8.52ct diamond ring sold at Sotheby’s Geneva for a cool $6.275 million (£4.698m).

Read more: Stunning Jewellery and Eye-Catching Watches on the Oscars Red Carpet

The mood was buoyant as the Christie’s sale wrapped up the Geneva spring jewellery auction season on May 16, with rare diamonds, gemstones and jewels achieving remarkable prices, sometimes several times their estimates.

Meghan Markle’s choice of jewellery at her wedding to Prince Harry on May 19 reflected the lasting appeal of high quality heirlooms and branded items. She wore a tiara straight from the Queen’s collection, the Queen Mary Diamond Bandeau.

Queen Mary, wife of King George V, bought this diamond bandeau from London jeweller Garrard in 1925.

The Royal Wedding of Prince Harry and Meghan Markle Duke and Duchess of Sussex - Driving in the carriage through Windsor waving at crowds
Meghan Markle wore Queen Mary’s Diamond Bandeau tiara on her wedding day, loaned to her by Queen Elizabeth II. Image: Shutterstock.

Markle, now the Duchess of Sussex, wore delicate diamond stud earrings from the Galanterie de Cartier collection, as well as one simple diamond bracelet by the French design house, both in white gold and diamonds.

Read more: Bridal Jewellery Trends Inspired by Prince Harry and Meghan Markle

At the Geneva sales, heirlooms and Cartier pieces saw sturdy demand, emphasising the appeal to collectors of long-lasting quality in design, craftsmanship and materials.

Among the heirlooms, a star performer was a 1950s gem set and diamond demi-parure, ‘Zip’, by the French maison Van Cleef & Arpels, which went under the hammer for $410,000 (£306,900), soaring above its pre-sale estimate of $50,000-70,000 (£37,000-£52,000).

Van Cleef and Arpels Zip Sotheby's Geneva Auction May 2018
A Van Cleef & Arpels Zip necklace that performed strongly at Sotheby’s in Geneva.

“It is testimony that good quality jewels, that are well made, will do very well at auction,” said Daniela Mascetti, Sotheby’s Deputy Chairman Jewellery, Europe, after the sale.

She added: “Signed pieces went crazy. There were so many fantastic pieces, such as the ($)410,000 hammer (price) for Van Cleef & Arpels.”

At Christie’s, a coloured diamond, emerald, mother-of-pearl and diamond, ‘Les Oiseaux Liberes’ bangle by Cartier, achieved a hammer price of $660,000 (£494,309), well above its $200,000-300,000 (£149,000-£224,000) estimate.

International Focus: Thailand Aims to be Leading Gems and Jewellery Hub

An important late 19th century emerald and diamond necklace, by Tiffany & Co., which was originally sold by Christie’s New York over 20 years ago, netted $1.57 million (£1.175m), comfortably above its pre-sale estimate of $700,000-1.2 million (£524,000-£898,000).

Leading the Christie’s sale was a 50.47ct white diamond ring by Harry Winston, with a fantastic D colour, VVS1 clarity, which sold for $6.5 million (£4.867m).

The top lot at the Sotheby’s sale on May 15 was the historic 6.16ct Farnese Blue diamond, which had previously been in the hands of the same family for 300 years. It went for $6.7 million (£5.01m) to an anonymous buyer, well above estimate.

The Farnese Blue Diamond
The historic Farnese Blue diamond that once belonged to royalty.

Read more: The 5 Biggest Watch Trends to Shape Your 2018/19 Buying Decisions

Just as in the Christie’s sale, white diamonds did very well at Sotheby’s.

Two stones, each in excess of 50 carats, sold above their estimates. A 51.71ct round white diamond garnered $9.25 million, above its estimate of up to $9.1 million (£6.925m). A 50.39ct oval cut white diamond sold for $8.12 million (£6.07m), exceeding its estimate of up to $7.68 million (£5.75m) The Sotheby’s sale fetched $85.6 million (£64.09m) in total (see main image).

Read more: Heavenly Fine Jewellery from the Met Gala Red Carpet

Outside the Christie’s venue at the luxurious Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues, supercars, including top-of-the-range Ferraris, Mercedes and Porsches, lined up, and the chic restaurants nearby were full, underscoring the fabulous wealth of buyers attending the sale, which brought in $81.62 million (£61.1m).

Some of the world’s top diamond dealers, such as Oded Mansori, who specialises in rare stones in excess of 10 carats, participated in the sale.

“We’re pleased with the entire auction,” said Rahul Kadakia, the auctioneer in the sale of the top lots at Christie’s, which wrapped up soon before midnight after 12 hours of often frenzied bidding.

IJL is #withyou offering international insights and auction results that reveal the highs, lows and opportunities for growth in our sparkling industry. Find out more about our 2018 exhibitors or contact a member of our team for more information. 

Images courtesy of Sotheby’s – Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels May 18.

Blog, Industry, News, Products, Trends

All that Glitters: Red Carpet Jewels from the Cannes Film Festival 2018

by IJL • • 1 Comment

As the most glamorous celebration of film descended on the sparkling French Riviera, it was high jewellery and fine jewellery pieces that took centre stage, allowing A-list celebrities the chance to embellish their couture dresses perfectly. 

Here, we take a look at the top three trends from this year’s festival to discover how the lucky few will be shimmering throughout the summer. Drawing inspiration from these designs may offer some style direction for the upcoming buying season, or a flash of an idea for a new fine jewellery collection.

Top 3 Jewellery Trends of the Cannes Film Festival 2018

Natural Instincts

Nature-themed motifs were a huge trend on the red carpet; from the Boucheron diamond encrusted vine leaf ear cuffs seen on French actress, Lea Seydoux, to the precious Chopard butterfly wing rings that adorned Australian star, Cate Blanchett.

A post shared by Boucheron (@boucheron) on

Elsewhere, Bulgari impressed with variations of its iconic Serpenti design on the red carpet (loved by Bella Hadid, among others) and actress Jessica Chastain proved that marquise-cut diamonds are having a moment in a Piaget butterfly diamond ear cuff.

More abstract designs also proved popular, including diamond ‘cobwebs’ and statement diamond-studded angle wings… and let’s not forget actress Kristen Stewart’s statement diamond lion brooch by Chanel.

Don’t miss! Chopard’s new Orchid-inspired earrings, unveiled at Cannes, are a sight to behold.

A post shared by Chopard Official (@chopard) on

Ethical Designs

Atelier Swarvoski used the Cannes stage to launch its new collection of fine jewellery crafted in Fairtrade Gold. Actress Penelope Cruz unveiled the collection on the red carpet, wearing a pair of white gold earrings set with Swarvoski created rubies in the en-vogue ear-climber style.

A post shared by SWAROVSKI (@swarovski) on

Chopard also forged ahead with its ethical mission statement by showcasing new pieces in its ‘Green Carpet Collection’. Although a host of stars wore pieces from the brand, it was actress Julianne Moore’s responsibly sourced Paraiba tourmaline show-stopper that turned heads – just look at that neon blue hue!

A post shared by Julianne Moore (@juliannemoore) on

Coloured Gems

‘The brighter the rock, the better’ seemed to be the motto of this year’s festival! Pieces ranged from tutti-frutti arrangements to incredible (and in most cases extremely large) emeralds, sapphires, rubies and tourmalines. French model Carla Bruni wore a particularly impressive long-line diamond and sapphire necklace by Chopard that perfectly encapsulated the ‘more is more’ approach.

Emeralds were the clear winner in the style stakes, with the finest examples being presented by De Grisogono, Chopard and Chaumet. But don’t be expecting elegant emerald studs… pieces were oversized, creative and full of joie de vivre!

IJL is #withyou selecting key trends from high-profile events and distilling them for jewellers, brands and retailers, both in the UK and internationally. Discover the exhibitors who will present their fine jewellery creations at IJL 2018, here.

Title image: Shutterstock

Blog, News, People, Trends

Bridal Jewellery Trends Inspired by Prince Harry and Meghan Markle

by IJL • • 8 Comments

The Meghan Markle-effect isn’t just a flash-in-the-pan but a global phenomenon that’s shaping everything from dresses and cakes to jewellery and headpieces.

The traditional vision of a princess bride, akin to Grace Kelly, Princess Diana and Catherine Middleton, the Duchess of Cambridge, helps to fuel wedding conversations like nothing else.

Now is the time for jewellers to capitalise on these oh-so-important royal conversations and sell their find diamond pieces in the context Meghan’s awe-inspiring big day.

WATCH! The #IJL2018 Royal Wedding Special from Kensington Palace! 

For retailers and designer brands, we’ve rounded up the top bridal trends of 2018/2019 inspired by the royal couple. Although some trends have blossomed since Prince Harry popped the question, others are likely to continue to flourish as royal wedding fever takes hold of the next six months.

Bridal Jewellery Trends 2018/2019

Trilogy Rings 

Ever since Meghan flashed her three-diamond engagement ring, trilogies have been big news in the fine jewellery sphere. Meghan’s ring is set with a three carat cushion-cut centre stone, flanked by two smaller round-cut diamonds gifted to Prince Harry by Princess Diana.

Unsurprisingly, Meghan’s ring has encouraged brides-to-be to see trilogy rings in a new light, but perhaps the more exciting development is the fancy-cut centre solitaire, which may inspire a whole host of emerald, radiant, marquise, pear, oval and cushion cut designs, set alongside two ‘safer’ round brilliant cuts.

Plus, the heirloom quality of Harry’s bespoke engagement ring design is likely to remind future couples that sentimental stones and jewellery pieces can be repurposed for a new era. You can read more about this on Professional Jeweller.

Return of the Classics 

Royal weddings speak of tradition and grandeur, which is why so many classic silhouettes have sped back into fashion in recent months. Think nipped-in waists inspired by 1950s wedding dresses, lace, long veils that skim the floor, lengthy trains and, of course, classic jewellery pieces like diamond stud earrings, tennis bracelets, pearl strands and solitaire pendants.

Claudia Bradby of IJL 2018 exhibitor Claudia Bradby Jewellery is attending the big day and shared this image of her pearl choices on Instagram!

Champagne Shades

Although Meghan is expected to wear white, the current trend for champagne, pale peach, pink and lilac wedding dresses from the likes of Alice Temperley and Vera Wang should spur excitement among jewellers. Champagne diamonds, pastel shades of soft yellow, hints of pink and soft beige-brown diamonds could signal more adventurous fine and bridal jewellery options heading into autumn. Watch this space!

Statement Earrings 

With royal etiquette typically demanding longer sleeves, higher necklaces and a more modest approach to dressing, statement earrings really have chance to shine. As the summer wedding season approaches, retailers from international fashion brands to bespoke designer-makers may see renewed fervour for their tear-drop, chandelier and sleeper earrings that hint at a bold personality behind a demure dress.

The Contemporary Bride 

The fluff of taffeta and lace is contrasted with the elegance of bridal minimalism – think columns of silk skimming the floor without the usual beading, ruffles or sequins. Meghan Markle is expected to veer into this territory, unlike her sister-in-law Catherine, which means equally minimal jewellery is order of the day. Delicate diamond line necklaces, bezel-set diamond bracelets and simple pearls are likely to shine.

Heavenly Headpieces

Whenever a royal wedding approaches, thoughts turn to tiaras. Although it is unclear whether Meghan will wear a borrowed tiara from a member of the royal family, it is presumed that she will wear some kind of hair adornment. Catherine Middleton wore the Queen’s Cartier Halo Scroll Tiara for her wedding, so perhaps Meghan will follow in her footsteps?

Something Blue 

From Catherine Middleton’s blue sapphire to Princess Eugenie’s padparadscha sapphire – coloured gemstones are having a bridal moment. With the tradition for ‘something blue’, subtle cornflower blue sapphire pendants, stud earrings and hair pins are likely to make an appearance on aisles up-and-down the country. The ongoing obsession with pink diamonds at auction is also likely to make pink sapphire designs a coveted wedding day treat for brides.

Advertising your most traditional bridal designs in a host of bespoke colourways will no doubt spur the creativity in customers.

Bountiful Bows

Bows are big news in bridal… and they have been for decades. But what makes them new for 2018 is their sheer scale, with swathes of fabric at the base of the back, the waistline and neckline on couture wedding dresses (look to Viktor & Rolf, Lela Rose, Caroline Herrera and Reem Acra for inspiration).

In jewellery, Meghan may hint at this overarching trend with diamond-set bows by the likes of Garrard, or Queen Victoria’s trio of bow brooches that now belong to the queen.

With predictions flying across every air wave, it’s clear the world is counting down to discover what Meghan and her bridesmaids will wear on May 19. With the wedding expected to kick-off on Saturday at 12pm, the test for jewellers, manufacturers and brands will be how quick they can react, and how accurate their estimates of the market really were.

IJL is #withyou going behind-the-scenes of the most incredible moments in the global calendar. Find out more about What’s On at IJL 2018, visit our Trends Catwalk page, or contact a member of the team to find out more.