Editor’s Choice judge Claire Adler honoured in Luxury Tastemaker Awards

IJL Editor’s Choice judge and luxury jewellery consultant, Claire Adler, has been named one of London’s top 20 ‘Luxury Tastemakers’ in IN London magazine’s inaugural Luxury Tastemaker Awards.

Claire has been honoured alongside eco-friendly designer Livia Firth, photographer Nick Knight OBE and Net-a-Porter founder Natalie Massenet, among others, proving what a fantastic and high-profile award this really is.

Claire uses her specialist knowledge of London’s luxury jewellery scene to write for the Financial Times, as well as consult with brands like De Beers, Boodles, Piaget and Montblanc.

Speaking to IN London magazine, Claire says: “Whether it’s polishing diamonds in Antwerp or fitting a suit on Savile Row, I love working with successful entrepreneurs and business owners who are natural pros at putting their heart and soul into what they do.”

Claire is also passionate about promoting London as a centre of jewellery excellence, something which is reflected in her continuing commitment to International Jewellery London and the Editor’s Choice Awards.

Claire explained to IN London magazine: “London is now the third largest market for luxury goods in the world, with a luxury sector worth £32.2 billion according to Walpole. The outlook is good for global luxury goods. According to Euromonitor International, sales are forecast to soar from $317 billion in 2015 to $339 billion in 2020.”

On the subject of the Editor’s Choice Awards, Claire says: “IJL Editor’s Choice, the annual jewellery design competition open to all IJL exhibitors, started in 2009 and it’s a fantastic honour judging the competition each year. At a challenging time for the jewellery industry, with the economic slowdown and the high cost of advanced education, winning a competition is a great bonus for companies, which can help them to capture the attention of both press and consumers.

“I personally find it a privilege to be involved in influencing, in some cases, the career path of some competition entrants – many IJL winners have gone on to scoop further industry recognition, something we are very proud of at IJL. The entrants do tend up live up to IJL’s name and are pretty international – as well as English and Irish entrants we’ve had entrants from Oman, Italy, France, Poland, Germany, Denmark, the US and Turkey. I hope we’ll see even more entries this year.”

Picture: Claire Adler in the Star Diamond Showroom. Ring by Star Diamond. Necklace by Catherine Prevost. Photography by Dan Stevens

 

 

 

5 minutes with: UK Jewellery Awards Finalist Dalia Daou

International Jewellery London is thrilled to be supporting the Retail Jeweller UK Jewellery Awards New Designer of the Year category in 2016.

To celebrate, we’re finding out a little bit more about the shortlisted designer-makers and brands, including IJL 2015 exhibitor Dalia Daou of Daou Jewellery.

Here the designer discusses her family history of jewellery design, the question she’d most like to ask a mentor and the stand-out jewels that always capture the attention of buyers.

Q: When did you found your brand and what is your background in jewellery design? 

DD: I founded Daou Jewellery in London two years ago after training in gemmology at the GIA, design at Holts and CSM and after a lifetime of familiarity with fine jewellery and art practise. Daou was originally founded in 1930 in another world though and after an interrupted history I have revived the jewellery family name in London.

Q: How would you describe your design style and is there a particular woman you design for?

DD: Daou jewellery is modern and elegant, designed with thought, to be best shown off and complement the wearer when worn. The main inspiration being light in all its forms and effects, Daou also means light, and a slight reference to our 1930s origins. I design for all those who appreciate design and beauty, and for women who are all of the above but also intrinsically powerful and a little unexpected.

Q: Do you have any key collections or stand-out pieces that always seem to draw attention?

DD: The Sunset Sunrise collection hero rings are absolutely eye catching in their modern impressionistic style of tonal baguettes and brilliant sapphires and continue to be featured often. The new Sparks collection launched at IJL last September has been incredibly popular, both the delicate earrings and fine multi-way stacking rings.

Q: If you could learn one thing from a mentor or peer in the industry what would it be? 

DD: How to reach more customers!

Q: Finally, do you have any experience exhibiting at IJL, and what was your impression of the show?

DD: I exhibited last September for the first time; the show was great, constantly busy and we spoke to so many varied visitors and exhibitors.

The Retail Jeweller UK Jewellery Awards 2016 will take place at the London Hilton on Park Lane on June 29th 2016. For information, please click here

1355886_UKJA-Logo

UKJA Finalist Jeanne Marell on KickStart, mentoring and balancing her time

International Jewellery London is thrilled to be supporting the Retail Jeweller UK Jewellery Awards New Designer of the Year category in 2016.

To celebrate, we’re finding out a little bit more about the shortlisted designer-makers and brands, including KickStarter 2014 Jeanne Marell.

Here the designer-maker delves into the challenges that impact her as a designer, her signature style and why applying for KickStart proved to be a business-changing opportunity…

Q: When did you found your brand and what is your background in jewellery design?
JM: I set up my jewellery business in 2014, following a Benchpeg award nomination for my Parody ring. I consider myself largely self-taught, with a few formative training courses to learn the basics. I did my first goldsmithing course at an evening college in the Netherlands, where I’m originally from, back in 1999.

I considered studying Jewellery Design at university, but started a product design degree at The Design Academy instead. I took a semester break from this to go and study gold and silversmithing at Escola Massana in Barcelona, but then returned to finish my Product Design degree. A few years on, during my first job at General Motors, I continued studying jewellery in evening education at Cranbrook School of Art near Detroit, Michigan.

Fast forward a decade and a long jewellery hiatus, I picked up my tools again for an evening course at Citylit. My first piece there, the Parody ring, was nominated for the Benchpeg award and all the interest and feedback propelled me into setting up my business.

Q: How would you describe your design style and is there a particular woman you design for?
JM: I design and make minimalist jewellery with a twist. Forms are often combinations of simple geometries, and the combination of two materials or finishes emphasise materiality in new, playful ways. My pieces are meticulously designed and executed with high attention to detail and craftsmanship. I design for women and men with a keen eye for architecture, graphic and product design, geometric structures, contrasting materials and finishes.

My jewellery makes a subtle statement, drawing the attention of equally observant eyes. Recently, I’ve seen an increased interest from couples, who are looking for pieces of jewellery to mark special occasions and that attract both partners equally.

Q: What is it like being a new designer in the UK jewellery industry?
The most exciting, but also the most challenging thing is prioritising between the myriad of opportunities out there: which events to show at, which stockists to pursue, how to focus your marketing efforts? Finding the balance between your precious time as designer, maker and business owner in the early days of growing your company is key.

Q: If you could learn one thing from a mentor or peer in the industry what would it be?
JM: What their view is on how to best prioritise all the opportunities, and how to stagger collection development, promotion and expansion to grow organically and sustainably

Q: Finally, how did being a KickStarter work for you and would you recommend the scheme to others?

JM: Following my Benchpeg award nomination, I decided to apply for KickStart in 2014. When I then got selected, it was my first show in my newly founded business’ calendar! Getting ready for IJL and KickStart really helped me focus in the early days of my business.

The show propelled the business forward, allowed me to become established quickly by giving me exposure and credibility. I met stockists, suppliers and built a network of peers, all of which are proving a great support each in their own way to this day.

Being selected for KickStart also gave me the confidence to pursue my wildest ambitions, resulting in showing at Goldsmiths’ Fair in 2015, the first time I applied.

The Retail Jeweller UK Jewellery Awards 2016 will take place at the London Hilton on Park Lane on June 29th 2016. For information, please click here

1355886_UKJA-Logo

Andrew Geoghegan talks relaunching his brand at IJL

2015 saw designer fine jewellery brand Andrew Geoghegan overhaul its brand image with a new website, logo and ethos. We talk to the brand’s eponymous designer to find out what made IJL the perfect platform to show off all his hard work…

Q: Why did you decide to relaunch your brand last year?

It was becoming apparent that there was a disconnect between our product, its price and the way we presented ourselves in the marketplace. This disconnection had a huge impact on the way our retailers portrayed us and how the consumer perceived us – we knew this needed addressing and that changes needed to be made. It was clear that we really needed to explore the Andrew Geoghegan brand, to understand exactly who we were, why we do what we do, and who we do that for – something we hadn’t done for quite a few years. Ultimately, we wanted to understand why our brand existed – what was our purpose?

The journey we took enabled us to fully understand who we were and which direction we wanted the brand to go. This exploration was essential for the success and longevity of the business and also a marvellous opportunity for me to interrogate what I do – to understand how both my practice and business have developed over time, my connection to it, and ultimately how all that connects with the wearer – what they truly value and appreciate about what we do. It was an amazing journey.

Q: Why was IJL the best platform for you to show off the results of your brand redesign? 

IJL was the perfect platform to relaunch our brand. Andrew Geoghegan has exhibited at  IJL for many years and it has often been the chosen venue to showcase our new collections – it seemed only fitting that this should be the venue to launch the new Andrew Geoghegan brand identity. We didn’t want the launch to be merely one received by retailers via digital or printed means – we wanted the industry to truly get a sense of the new identity and the implications that went along with it.

With the majority of UK retailers in attendance, we felt that IJL would provide a fabulous setting for a ‘real-life’ launch of the rebrand and allow retailers to come and see the new look as well as being able to talk to the team at Andrew Geoghegan about the significant changes we had made.

Q: How was your experience of IJL in 2015 – did it live up to your expectations?

We had a terrific fair. New retailers, established retailers and even ones with whom we had previously parted company with, placed orders and expressed their delight in the new AG. The team did feel that the IJL should revert back to a four day event rather than three. We felt this because we needed more time to spend with our clients and that four days would give us that opportunity.

I would also add that I believe more UK retailers should support IJL. The dazzle of the international fairs, can sometimes put the IJL unfairly in the shadows, but we strongly encourage the UK jewellery industry to support it and visit. IJL always hosts a fantastic mix of suppliers – many of which are home grown talents that deserve the platform to be seen by all.

Q: With such an exciting year in 2015 how will the Andrew Geoghegan brand continue to develop in 2016 – do you have any surprises up your sleeve?

Always! We never rest on our laurels, and Andrew Geoghegan has much to offer in 2016. Since the IJL we have launched our luxurious point of sale which takes a confident and imperious seat in our retail networks’ windows. By the time this interview goes to press, we will have launched the exquisite Clair de Lune, a French inspired bridal collection which we are certain will follow in the footsteps of the Cannelé, our most successful piece to date. This will be paralleled with a new Cocktail launch, the Satellite Pear, and throughout the year you will be releasing many more bridal and cocktail collections.

Our jewellery launches are now a very different affair, and in line with where we now know we need to be positioned. The Clair de Lune will launch with an incredible campaign and we are more than a little bit excited about the response it will get from the industry. Impeccable image assets for digital and print as well as a synergy across all platforms from PR to Social Media is absolutely essential for the new look Andrew Geoghegan. With our photographic images being shot by the genius Andrew Neilson, we know the industry will be wowed by what we have to show off this season.

In the run up to the rebrand the company matured into a truly standout business. We knew that to ensure the continued success of the company we had to explore every aspect of the business and we have made some brave changes. We addressed every element including order and office management, sales, accounts, brand management and marketing to ensure everything worked beautifully together. With this excellence running through each member of the team and vein of the business the AG brand is set to establish itself further as a truly inspirational British brand. We can’t wait to show you how in 2016!

Q: What are your best-selling designs at the moment?

The aforementioned Cannelé has been a phenomenal seller for us, partly fuelled by the fact Pippa Middleton wears a stunning version in Rose gold with Chocolate diamond. On the other side of the arena we have the cocktail rings where the Chocolate Box, with its delicious collection of colours, and the Satellite keep on proving their desirability. In terms of which metal and gemstones are performing – in bridal, platinum and 18ct white continues to remain strong for us with rose gold showing a resurgence of late. In our cocktail collection, the three colours of 18ct remain strong with pretty much any gemstone you care to mention.

Editor’s Choice judge Claire Adler honoured in Luxury Tastemaker Awards

IJL Editor’s Choice judge and luxury jewellery consultant, Claire Adler, has been named one of London’s top 20 ‘Luxury Tastemakers’ in IN London magazine’s inaugural Luxury Tastemaker Awards.

Claire has been honoured alongside eco-friendly designer Livia Firth, photographer Nick Knight OBE and Net-a-Porter founder Natalie Massenet, among others, proving what a fantastic and high-profile award this really is.

Claire uses her specialist knowledge of London’s luxury jewellery scene to write for the Financial Times, as well as consult with brands like De Beers, Boodles, Piaget and Montblanc.

Speaking to IN London magazine, Claire says: “Whether it’s polishing diamonds in Antwerp or fitting a suit on Savile Row, I love working with successful entrepreneurs and business owners who are natural pros at putting their heart and soul into what they do.”

Claire is also passionate about promoting London as a centre of jewellery excellence, something which is reflected in her continuing commitment to International Jewellery London and the Editor’s Choice Awards.

Claire explained to IN London magazine: “London is now the third largest market for luxury goods in the world, with a luxury sector worth £32.2 billion according to Walpole. The outlook is good for global luxury goods. According to Euromonitor International, sales are forecast to soar from $317 billion in 2015 to $339 billion in 2020.”

On the subject of the Editor’s Choice Awards, Claire says: “IJL Editor’s Choice, the annual jewellery design competition open to all IJL exhibitors, started in 2009 and it’s a fantastic honour judging the competition each year. At a challenging time for the jewellery industry, with the economic slowdown and the high cost of advanced education, winning a competition is a great bonus for companies, which can help them to capture the attention of both press and consumers.

“I personally find it a privilege to be involved in influencing, in some cases, the career path of some competition entrants – many IJL winners have gone on to scoop further industry recognition, something we are very proud of at IJL. The entrants do tend up live up to IJL’s name and are pretty international – as well as English and Irish entrants we’ve had entrants from Oman, Italy, France, Poland, Germany, Denmark, the US and Turkey. I hope we’ll see even more entries this year.”

Picture: Claire Adler in the Star Diamond Showroom. Ring by Star Diamond. Necklace by Catherine Prevost. Photography by Dan Stevens

 

 

 

5 minutes with: UK Jewellery Awards Finalist Dalia Daou

International Jewellery London is thrilled to be supporting the Retail Jeweller UK Jewellery Awards New Designer of the Year category in 2016.

To celebrate, we’re finding out a little bit more about the shortlisted designer-makers and brands, including IJL 2015 exhibitor Dalia Daou of Daou Jewellery.

Here the designer discusses her family history of jewellery design, the question she’d most like to ask a mentor and the stand-out jewels that always capture the attention of buyers.

Q: When did you found your brand and what is your background in jewellery design? 

DD: I founded Daou Jewellery in London two years ago after training in gemmology at the GIA, design at Holts and CSM and after a lifetime of familiarity with fine jewellery and art practise. Daou was originally founded in 1930 in another world though and after an interrupted history I have revived the jewellery family name in London.

Q: How would you describe your design style and is there a particular woman you design for?

DD: Daou jewellery is modern and elegant, designed with thought, to be best shown off and complement the wearer when worn. The main inspiration being light in all its forms and effects, Daou also means light, and a slight reference to our 1930s origins. I design for all those who appreciate design and beauty, and for women who are all of the above but also intrinsically powerful and a little unexpected.

Q: Do you have any key collections or stand-out pieces that always seem to draw attention?

DD: The Sunset Sunrise collection hero rings are absolutely eye catching in their modern impressionistic style of tonal baguettes and brilliant sapphires and continue to be featured often. The new Sparks collection launched at IJL last September has been incredibly popular, both the delicate earrings and fine multi-way stacking rings.

Q: If you could learn one thing from a mentor or peer in the industry what would it be? 

DD: How to reach more customers!

Q: Finally, do you have any experience exhibiting at IJL, and what was your impression of the show?

DD: I exhibited last September for the first time; the show was great, constantly busy and we spoke to so many varied visitors and exhibitors.

The Retail Jeweller UK Jewellery Awards 2016 will take place at the London Hilton on Park Lane on June 29th 2016. For information, please click here

1355886_UKJA-Logo

UKJA Finalist Jeanne Marell on KickStart, mentoring and balancing her time

International Jewellery London is thrilled to be supporting the Retail Jeweller UK Jewellery Awards New Designer of the Year category in 2016.

To celebrate, we’re finding out a little bit more about the shortlisted designer-makers and brands, including KickStarter 2014 Jeanne Marell.

Here the designer-maker delves into the challenges that impact her as a designer, her signature style and why applying for KickStart proved to be a business-changing opportunity…

Q: When did you found your brand and what is your background in jewellery design?
JM: I set up my jewellery business in 2014, following a Benchpeg award nomination for my Parody ring. I consider myself largely self-taught, with a few formative training courses to learn the basics. I did my first goldsmithing course at an evening college in the Netherlands, where I’m originally from, back in 1999.

I considered studying Jewellery Design at university, but started a product design degree at The Design Academy instead. I took a semester break from this to go and study gold and silversmithing at Escola Massana in Barcelona, but then returned to finish my Product Design degree. A few years on, during my first job at General Motors, I continued studying jewellery in evening education at Cranbrook School of Art near Detroit, Michigan.

Fast forward a decade and a long jewellery hiatus, I picked up my tools again for an evening course at Citylit. My first piece there, the Parody ring, was nominated for the Benchpeg award and all the interest and feedback propelled me into setting up my business.

Q: How would you describe your design style and is there a particular woman you design for?
JM: I design and make minimalist jewellery with a twist. Forms are often combinations of simple geometries, and the combination of two materials or finishes emphasise materiality in new, playful ways. My pieces are meticulously designed and executed with high attention to detail and craftsmanship. I design for women and men with a keen eye for architecture, graphic and product design, geometric structures, contrasting materials and finishes.

My jewellery makes a subtle statement, drawing the attention of equally observant eyes. Recently, I’ve seen an increased interest from couples, who are looking for pieces of jewellery to mark special occasions and that attract both partners equally.

Q: What is it like being a new designer in the UK jewellery industry?
The most exciting, but also the most challenging thing is prioritising between the myriad of opportunities out there: which events to show at, which stockists to pursue, how to focus your marketing efforts? Finding the balance between your precious time as designer, maker and business owner in the early days of growing your company is key.

Q: If you could learn one thing from a mentor or peer in the industry what would it be?
JM: What their view is on how to best prioritise all the opportunities, and how to stagger collection development, promotion and expansion to grow organically and sustainably

Q: Finally, how did being a KickStarter work for you and would you recommend the scheme to others?

JM: Following my Benchpeg award nomination, I decided to apply for KickStart in 2014. When I then got selected, it was my first show in my newly founded business’ calendar! Getting ready for IJL and KickStart really helped me focus in the early days of my business.

The show propelled the business forward, allowed me to become established quickly by giving me exposure and credibility. I met stockists, suppliers and built a network of peers, all of which are proving a great support each in their own way to this day.

Being selected for KickStart also gave me the confidence to pursue my wildest ambitions, resulting in showing at Goldsmiths’ Fair in 2015, the first time I applied.

The Retail Jeweller UK Jewellery Awards 2016 will take place at the London Hilton on Park Lane on June 29th 2016. For information, please click here

1355886_UKJA-Logo

Andrew Geoghegan talks relaunching his brand at IJL

2015 saw designer fine jewellery brand Andrew Geoghegan overhaul its brand image with a new website, logo and ethos. We talk to the brand’s eponymous designer to find out what made IJL the perfect platform to show off all his hard work…

Q: Why did you decide to relaunch your brand last year?

It was becoming apparent that there was a disconnect between our product, its price and the way we presented ourselves in the marketplace. This disconnection had a huge impact on the way our retailers portrayed us and how the consumer perceived us – we knew this needed addressing and that changes needed to be made. It was clear that we really needed to explore the Andrew Geoghegan brand, to understand exactly who we were, why we do what we do, and who we do that for – something we hadn’t done for quite a few years. Ultimately, we wanted to understand why our brand existed – what was our purpose?

The journey we took enabled us to fully understand who we were and which direction we wanted the brand to go. This exploration was essential for the success and longevity of the business and also a marvellous opportunity for me to interrogate what I do – to understand how both my practice and business have developed over time, my connection to it, and ultimately how all that connects with the wearer – what they truly value and appreciate about what we do. It was an amazing journey.

Q: Why was IJL the best platform for you to show off the results of your brand redesign? 

IJL was the perfect platform to relaunch our brand. Andrew Geoghegan has exhibited at  IJL for many years and it has often been the chosen venue to showcase our new collections – it seemed only fitting that this should be the venue to launch the new Andrew Geoghegan brand identity. We didn’t want the launch to be merely one received by retailers via digital or printed means – we wanted the industry to truly get a sense of the new identity and the implications that went along with it.

With the majority of UK retailers in attendance, we felt that IJL would provide a fabulous setting for a ‘real-life’ launch of the rebrand and allow retailers to come and see the new look as well as being able to talk to the team at Andrew Geoghegan about the significant changes we had made.

Q: How was your experience of IJL in 2015 – did it live up to your expectations?

We had a terrific fair. New retailers, established retailers and even ones with whom we had previously parted company with, placed orders and expressed their delight in the new AG. The team did feel that the IJL should revert back to a four day event rather than three. We felt this because we needed more time to spend with our clients and that four days would give us that opportunity.

I would also add that I believe more UK retailers should support IJL. The dazzle of the international fairs, can sometimes put the IJL unfairly in the shadows, but we strongly encourage the UK jewellery industry to support it and visit. IJL always hosts a fantastic mix of suppliers – many of which are home grown talents that deserve the platform to be seen by all.

Q: With such an exciting year in 2015 how will the Andrew Geoghegan brand continue to develop in 2016 – do you have any surprises up your sleeve?

Always! We never rest on our laurels, and Andrew Geoghegan has much to offer in 2016. Since the IJL we have launched our luxurious point of sale which takes a confident and imperious seat in our retail networks’ windows. By the time this interview goes to press, we will have launched the exquisite Clair de Lune, a French inspired bridal collection which we are certain will follow in the footsteps of the Cannelé, our most successful piece to date. This will be paralleled with a new Cocktail launch, the Satellite Pear, and throughout the year you will be releasing many more bridal and cocktail collections.

Our jewellery launches are now a very different affair, and in line with where we now know we need to be positioned. The Clair de Lune will launch with an incredible campaign and we are more than a little bit excited about the response it will get from the industry. Impeccable image assets for digital and print as well as a synergy across all platforms from PR to Social Media is absolutely essential for the new look Andrew Geoghegan. With our photographic images being shot by the genius Andrew Neilson, we know the industry will be wowed by what we have to show off this season.

In the run up to the rebrand the company matured into a truly standout business. We knew that to ensure the continued success of the company we had to explore every aspect of the business and we have made some brave changes. We addressed every element including order and office management, sales, accounts, brand management and marketing to ensure everything worked beautifully together. With this excellence running through each member of the team and vein of the business the AG brand is set to establish itself further as a truly inspirational British brand. We can’t wait to show you how in 2016!

Q: What are your best-selling designs at the moment?

The aforementioned Cannelé has been a phenomenal seller for us, partly fuelled by the fact Pippa Middleton wears a stunning version in Rose gold with Chocolate diamond. On the other side of the arena we have the cocktail rings where the Chocolate Box, with its delicious collection of colours, and the Satellite keep on proving their desirability. In terms of which metal and gemstones are performing – in bridal, platinum and 18ct white continues to remain strong for us with rose gold showing a resurgence of late. In our cocktail collection, the three colours of 18ct remain strong with pretty much any gemstone you care to mention.