Three Weeks Left to Find Six of the UK’s Best Emerging Jewellery Designers

International Jewellery London has issued a reminder to all UK up-and-coming jewellery designers that the deadline for applications for six places in this year’s KickStart initiative is now only three weeks away on April 10.

KickStart gives access to invaluable career boosting benefits for the chosen designers, including a mentoring package, workshop days, ongoing pricing, branding and marketing support, and introductions to key industry figures – with the added bonus of winning a free stand at IJL 2019 in the special ‘Industry’s Choice’ award.

In addition, to provide extra support, each UK-based winner will receive a bursary funded directly by the Benevolent Society Trust, to assist with London transport and accommodation costs.

All of which help ensure that each KickStarter has the opportunity to excel on their IJL Journey and maximise their experience at the show, where they will have access to IJL’s 9,000-strong jewellery audience of key buyers, leading influencers, international brands and consultants.

IJL Event Manager, Sarah Kitley-Spencer, comments: Now in its 9th year, this valuable mentoring, advice and exhibition platform is an important link in the IJL Journey – a unique industry path that guides design talent from final year student to successful consumer-facing brands.

“The chosen designers are very much the ‘one’s to watch’ with their finger on the trend pulse. The KickStart feature is one of the most popular highlights of the show for all those looking to see the latest exciting talent and trend-setters.”

KickStart, created by jewellery industry hub IJL and trade body the National Association of Jewellers (NAJ), has now helped more than 80 contemporary designers launch their careers and get an all-important foot in the door. KickStart alumni have gone on to have impressive careers in the jewellery sector.

As Lauren Rowden, creative director of Ellie Air Jewellery and a 2015 Kickstart winner, says: “KickStart was a great step up into the multi-dimensional business side of the jewellery industry. Meeting industry professionals within sales, management and accounting meant that I had an excellent chance to network at the event.”

How to Apply: Only those who have been trading for more than 12 months will be considered. The deadline is April 10, 2018. To apply for KickStart, please click here. 

To read more terms and conditions about KickStart, please click here

The 2017 KickStarters at their shared stand at Olympia.

What is the IJL Journey?

As part of our IJL 365 approach, the IJL Journey extends far beyond our three-day trade event. It offers myriad career-boosting benefits, including a mentoring package, workshop days, ongoing pricing, branding and marketing support, and introductions to key industry figures.

This invaluable advice prepares each Bright Young Gem, KickStarter and Design Gallery Exhibitor to meet the 9,000 strong jewellery audience at IJL 2018, from September 2-4.

Discover more about the IJL Journey, here. 

IJL is #withyou offering career opportunities and the chance to grow your jewellery business, whether you are a student, recent graduate, emerging brand or established player. Speak to our team to find out more. 

Quick Links: Listen to our IJL Talks podcast series

Quick Links: Discover how to create a press pack 

International Focus: India’s Growing Role in Global Diamond Trade

In the first of a series of International Focus articles for IJL on the global gem and jewellery trade, David Brough profiles India, a leading gold consumer and the world’s centre for diamond cutting and polishing. 

India has a dominant role in the processing and export of polished diamonds and looks set to increase its global leadership of the diamonds trade in the years ahead.

India is also a leading producer and exporter of manufactured and handcrafted gem-set jewellery and aims to boost exports in this category too, senior officials of the state-backed Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) say.

THE JOURNEY OF A DIAMOND

Nearly all diamonds pass through India at some stage of their cutting and polishing. Indian expertise is in the manufacturing of diamonds, which are generally imported as rough stones from origins such as southern Africa and Russia.

Net exports of Indian gems and jewellery rose to US$35.59 billion in fiscal year 2016-17, from US$15.66 billion in fiscal year 2004-5, according to the India Brand Equity Foundation.

The net exports of gems and jewellery from India rose at a compound annual growth rate of 7.01 percent from fiscal year 2005 to 2017, it added.

The rough diamonds are processed in state-of-the-art factories in centres such as Mumbai and Surat by a highly skilled labour force, and are then predominantly re-exported either as loose polished diamonds or set in finished jewellery.

THE MARKET FOR DIAMONDS IN INDIA

India, the world’s second most populous country after China, also has a growing domestic market for diamond jewellery as its middle class expands well into the hundreds of millions.

The GJEPC is charting a strategy to boost exports of polished diamonds further.

Recently the export strategy faced challenges after the government decided to double the import duty on polished diamonds to 5 percent, causing the GJEPC leadership to express disappointment over the move, fearing a slowdown in exports.

Nevertheless, the economies of scale of Indian diamond manufacturing and the extensive Indian diaspora in the trade around the world, will ensure that India remains highly competitive in the processing and export of polished diamonds in the years to come, jewellers say.

Much of the global trading of diamonds takes place in centres such as Antwerp and Dubai, where Indian businesses are already long established.

The GJEPC has strongly supported the generic marketing of diamonds led by the miner-backed Diamond Producers Association (DPA), whose initial campaigns have included the Indian market as well as other leading diamond jewellery markets such as the United States and China.

In coloured gemstones, the Indian city of Jaipur is India’s leading cutting centre, processing mainly imported stones.

The collection by K.P. Sanghvi reveals a modern edge, showcasing rings in three shades of German alloyed rose, white and yellow gold, fitted with diamonds using the latest machine technology.
The collection by K.P. Sanghvi reveals a modern edge, showcasing rings in three shades of German alloyed rose, white and yellow gold, fitted with diamonds using the latest machine technology.

INTERNATIONAL TRADE SHOWS FOR THE INDIAN MARKET

International trade shows are leading gateways for exports of Indian gems and jewellery, including the India International Jewellery Show (IIJS) in Mumbai, held twice a year, in February and July/August.

The IIJS events, visited by retailers from around the world, showcase the latest Indian jewellery designs in 22-carat gold, often set with diamonds and coloured gemstones manufactured in India.

India is one of the world’s top gold consumers and has a long tradition of using the yellow metal in wedding jewellery that belongs to the bride.

Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas
Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas;
Jewellers from Jaipur present a graceful, multi-layered necklace from their Adaa collection, inspired by royal women in India, adorned in floral motifs set with diamonds, emeralds and rubies.

The GJEPC has organised Indian pavilions at international trade fairs, to present the latest creations by Indian manufacturers and designers.

The body also organises buyer-seller meetings at which retailers from around the world buy from Indian gemstone and jewellery suppliers.

High end Indian designer-brands that have a high profile internationally, include Bina Goenka, and Farah Khan Ali.

MORE RECENT SCANDALS

A recent cloud hanging over the Indian gem and jewellery industry has been alleged bank fraud involving jewellers Nirav Modi and Gitanjali.

The focus of the GJEPC going forward will be to help in the promotion of up-and-coming Indian jewellery brands around the world, and in improving the image and reputation of goods that are “Made in India,” GJEPC officials say.

Jewellers who have combined Western and Eastern design influences, such as PureJewels in London, have had success in reaching out to the diaspora, notably the affluent British Asian market which is estimated to be worth around 2 percent of the UK retail jewellery market.

British Asian jewellery retailers tend to stock jewellery that was manufactured in India, where they often have family connections, as well as Western brands.

As jewellery consumers in the Indian diaspora become increasingly sophisticated, travelling in the West and enjoying higher incomes, tastes in design are becoming more cosmopolitan, so trends may develop in future merging Indian heritage with Western style.

IJL is #withyou offering insights on the global jewellery industry and other relevant content for our vibrant trade. Find out more about this year’s exhibitors from across the globe, here

KickStart Alumni: Lauren Rowden of Ellie Air Talks Business Growth and Her IJL Journey

As the creative director of Ellie Air Jewellery, Lauren Rowden turned to KickStart to give her business a push in the right direction in 2015.

Here, Rowden shares her top tips for KickStart success and explains why investing in a shared stand will always reap rewards in the long-term.

Q: What was your overall impression of KickStart and how did it help your business in its early stages?

KickStart was a great step up into the multi-dimensional business side of the jewellery industry. Meeting industry professionals within sales, management and accounting meant that I had an excellent chance to network at the event.

Lauren Rowden Ellie Air Jewllery working at the bench
Lauren Rowden is now at the helm of Ellie Air Jewellery full time.

KickStart is the best way to start exhibiting at a large trade show like IJL as buyers and press are funnelled directly to your stand. This is better than hoping they see you as they pass in the corridors.

Q. Being a KickStarter does involve investing in the cost of a shared stand at IJL 2018 – what would you say to people who are worried about taking the leap?

If you are looking to go into trade and wholesale then IJL and KickStart are hugely beneficial. Both time and money invested will inevitably be repaid, maybe at the show, maybe within a few weeks and months, but definitely year-on-year.

Ellie Air Jewellery Signature Ring
The Orrery Keepsake ring with Ellie Air Jewellery’s signature star-shaped setting in gold.

Q. How can future KickStarters capitalise on their IJL Journey and the IJL experience? What would be your advice?

To really invest into everything that’s on offer, whether that’s advice on pricing, sales, press packages etc, but also making the most of your one chance to display to new buyers and press.

Ellie Air Jewellery Necklace
Sunburst pendant by Ellie Air Jewellery.

Q. How did KickStart help you on your journey to success?

It was an unparalleled step into the wholesale industry. Having now exhibited at IJL for three years I still get asked if I was in KickStart – buyers and press really notice you and pay attention if your product and price point is presented in the best way.

Q. Finally, how is your jewellery industry career or brand progressing and what are you hoping to achieve in the future?

I now work full time for Ellie Air, having expanded the brand to the point where it is recognised in the UK and starting to be in America, both as wholesale and also a bespoke service provider.

To read more terms and conditions about KickStart, please click here

To apply for KickStart, please click here. 

The 2017 KickStarters at their shared stand at Olympia.

What is the IJL Journey?

As part of our IJL 365 approach, the IJL Journey extends far beyond our three-day trade event. It offers myriad career-boosting benefits, including a mentoring package, workshop days, ongoing pricing, branding and marketing support, and introductions to key industry figures.

This invaluable advice prepares each Bright Young Gem, KickStarter and Design Gallery Exhibitor to meet the 9,000 strong jewellery audience at IJL 2018, from September 2-4.

Discover more about the IJL Journey, here. 

IJL is #withyou offering career opportunities and the chance to grow your jewellery business, whether you are a student, recent graduate, emerging brand or established player. Speak to our team to find out more. 

Quick Links:Listen to our IJL Talks podcast series

Quick Links: Discover how to create a press pack 

International Women’s Day 2018: Celebrating Inspiring Women in Jewellery

This Thursday (March 8, 2018) marks International Women’s Day – a global meeting of minds that address challenges for women in the workplace, at home and in the wider world.

Of course, this day is also about celebrating inspiring women who are making a difference, standing up for others and doing innovative and interesting things in their chosen field. This year’s International Women’s Day has the theme #PressforProgress, with an emphasis on staying motivated and being determined to succeed no matter the goal.

Unfortunately, there are plenty of reasons why women need to stay motivated to make change. According to a recent report by the BBC, the majority of medium and large companies pay higher wage rates to men than to women. This disparity, known as the gender pay gap, reflects the different average hourly salaries earned by men and women.

According to data by the government, 74% of businesses pay higher rates to men, while just 15% of businesses with more than 250 staff members pay more to women.

International Women's Day IJL 2018
International Women’s Day spotlights women in all industries across the globe.

And while pay continues to be an issue, the lack of diversity in senior management and leadership roles is also a cause for concern. According to Helen Dickinson OBE, chief executive of the British Retail Consortium: “Companies harnessing the power of diversity throughout their business, from the bottom to the top, do better. So, why is it still that not enough women in retail are able to climb the ladder?”

Quoted in a report by Women in Retail, she continue: “Change will not happen unless we come together as an industry, recognise more needs to be done and take effective action.”

Did you Know? There are just 10 female board members out of a total of 67 across all seven member companies of the Diamond Producers Association. At executive committee level, women account for just 11% of the total number of employees (six out of a total of 53). Diamond Producers Association October 2017 figures

This Women in Retail report titled ‘The Commercial Advantage of More Women in the Boardroom’ goes on to highlight that 60% of people employed by the retail industry are women, and 85% of all retail purchases are made or influenced by women. Despite this, only 20% of executive teams and just 10% of executive boards are women.

International Women's Day IJL 2018 KICKSTARTERS 2017 alumni
The 2017 KickStarters highlighted the creativity of female designers at IJL 2017.

But the problem doesn’t start and end with retail. Throughout the jewellery supply chain women are grappling for better opportunities. In 2002, the South African Mining Charter introduced quotas to get mining companies to employ at least 10% female staff (there were just 2% women in the year 2000). This enforced step towards diversity was pushed further in 2017, and mining companies (including the likes of De Beers) are now required to include a minimum 25% black female representation at board level and a 44% minimum black female requirement at junior management level.

Yet the focus on ‘gender diversity’ often misses the issue of ‘gender inclusivity’ – while one is a numbers game, the other requires companies to create policies that make people feel welcomed, accepted and empowered in their roles. The US-based Women’s Jewelry Association is currently tackling this head-on with its new ‘advocacy task force’, which targets “gender-related biases in the jewelry industry workplace, including policies related to care giving, advancement and compensation”.

Taking up this mantle in the United Kingdom is the Women’s Jewellery Network. Co-founder, Kathryn Bishop, says:

“The Women’s Jewellery Network was conceived several years ago, and officially launched at IJL in 2017. Myself and founder Victoria (McKay, COO of the London Diamond Bourse) had found, increasingly through conversations with our women peers in the industry, that they and their colleagues wanted more support in their career progression in the UK industry.

“Whether they were graduates, management, worked in retail or were established designers, there was a clear lack of specific body in our trade that could support women in their career progression. So the WJN was born – a platform where women can connect with one another, meet in person through a nationwide series of events, converse through social channels and, over time, build a UK and international hub of women in industry able to connect, grow and inspire one another.”

Topics being discussed by the Women’s Jewellery Network for International Women’s Day include the #NoGlassCeiling campaign, launched in January to inspire women to look beyond the (invisible) glass ceiling that can often be a barrier to their personal growth, achieving the work/life balance, and finally how women’s own lifestyle choices and tastes will shape how the industry evolves in the years ahead.

Other members of the IJL community agree that a sense of collaboration is required to make changes. Sarah Greenaway, founder of jewellery brand Mosami and an active member of industry change group, Fair Luxury, comments:

“In a rapidly changing world where consumers are increasingly asking questions about where and how their purchases are made, our industry has some profound changes to make. Personally I find this an incredibly exciting time with an opportunity to create real differentiation in parallel with building a future-fit business that has a positive impact (or at least neutral impact) on the environment and a positive impact on society.

“Solving problems as huge and deep rooted as these requires courage, collaboration, drive and compassion – all are things that women excel at, and I fiercely believe that by working together we will make real and lasting changes – a legacy for our children.”

Lisa Levinson, a diamond specialist and consultant to the trade, adds: “Role models are important, there’s a legacy of women pioneering diamond exploration. Female scientists discovered some of the most important diamonds mines. Larissa Popugaeva discovered the first diamond bearing kimberlite in Russia, Maureen Muggeridge found the Argyle diamond mine and Eira Thomas found the Diavik diamond mine. I find that inspiring, they excelled at world’s largest treasure hunt.”

And Lucy Quartermaine, designer and IJL exhibitor, notes: “As a woman in the jewellery industry, I have been fortunate to be supported by other women whether other designers, media, marketing or those working within industry bodies. The strong network of women in the business enables us to share ideas and experiences as well as celebrate our successes.”

Champagne International Women's Day March 8 2018
Celebrate the innovative and inspirational women who make the jewellery industry great.

In the spirit of role models, we believe it is important to highlight some of the incredible females in our trade. Take a look below to discover some of our pioneering exhibitors and community members… of course, there are many many more!

For innovative pearls… look no further than Claudia Bradby, Miranda Raw of Raw Pearls and Bibi Southwell of ORA Pearls

For forward-thinking suppliers… turn to Julie Fowler Drake of Talbots

For up-and-coming talents… don’t miss Farrah Al-Dujaili of Oddical, Alice Barnes, Cara Tonkin and Lauren Rowden of Ellie Air Jewellery

For sales stars… speak to Laura Ager of Bezel Watches, Victoria Louise of LucyQ and Carol Sinfield of Hockley Mint

For big business… track down Lucy Reece-Raybould, executive director of business development at the Company of Master Jewellers, and Helen Haddow, chief executive of the Houlden Group

For industry media titans… contact Ruth Faulkner of Retail Jeweller, Stacey Hailes of Professional Jeweller and Belinda Morris of The Jeweller

For designers with discretion… don’t miss V by Laura Vann, Sif Jakobs, Anna Emmett of Henryka, Rachel Galley, Susi Smither of The Rock Hound and Vicki Smith at VIXI Jewellery

Share your #IWDxIJL2018 stars on social media. Here’s to a fantastic year for all our pioneering female exhibitors, visitors and Diamond Club Members!

IJL is #withyou supporting business growth and offering networking opportunities throughout the year and for three sparkling days in September. Speak to our team to find out more

Three Weeks Left to Find Six of the UK’s Best Emerging Jewellery Designers

International Jewellery London has issued a reminder to all UK up-and-coming jewellery designers that the deadline for applications for six places in this year’s KickStart initiative is now only three weeks away on April 10.

KickStart gives access to invaluable career boosting benefits for the chosen designers, including a mentoring package, workshop days, ongoing pricing, branding and marketing support, and introductions to key industry figures – with the added bonus of winning a free stand at IJL 2019 in the special ‘Industry’s Choice’ award.

In addition, to provide extra support, each UK-based winner will receive a bursary funded directly by the Benevolent Society Trust, to assist with London transport and accommodation costs.

All of which help ensure that each KickStarter has the opportunity to excel on their IJL Journey and maximise their experience at the show, where they will have access to IJL’s 9,000-strong jewellery audience of key buyers, leading influencers, international brands and consultants.

IJL Event Manager, Sarah Kitley-Spencer, comments: Now in its 9th year, this valuable mentoring, advice and exhibition platform is an important link in the IJL Journey – a unique industry path that guides design talent from final year student to successful consumer-facing brands.

“The chosen designers are very much the ‘one’s to watch’ with their finger on the trend pulse. The KickStart feature is one of the most popular highlights of the show for all those looking to see the latest exciting talent and trend-setters.”

KickStart, created by jewellery industry hub IJL and trade body the National Association of Jewellers (NAJ), has now helped more than 80 contemporary designers launch their careers and get an all-important foot in the door. KickStart alumni have gone on to have impressive careers in the jewellery sector.

As Lauren Rowden, creative director of Ellie Air Jewellery and a 2015 Kickstart winner, says: “KickStart was a great step up into the multi-dimensional business side of the jewellery industry. Meeting industry professionals within sales, management and accounting meant that I had an excellent chance to network at the event.”

How to Apply: Only those who have been trading for more than 12 months will be considered. The deadline is April 10, 2018. To apply for KickStart, please click here. 

To read more terms and conditions about KickStart, please click here

The 2017 KickStarters at their shared stand at Olympia.

What is the IJL Journey?

As part of our IJL 365 approach, the IJL Journey extends far beyond our three-day trade event. It offers myriad career-boosting benefits, including a mentoring package, workshop days, ongoing pricing, branding and marketing support, and introductions to key industry figures.

This invaluable advice prepares each Bright Young Gem, KickStarter and Design Gallery Exhibitor to meet the 9,000 strong jewellery audience at IJL 2018, from September 2-4.

Discover more about the IJL Journey, here. 

IJL is #withyou offering career opportunities and the chance to grow your jewellery business, whether you are a student, recent graduate, emerging brand or established player. Speak to our team to find out more. 

Quick Links: Listen to our IJL Talks podcast series

Quick Links: Discover how to create a press pack 

International Focus: India’s Growing Role in Global Diamond Trade

In the first of a series of International Focus articles for IJL on the global gem and jewellery trade, David Brough profiles India, a leading gold consumer and the world’s centre for diamond cutting and polishing. 

India has a dominant role in the processing and export of polished diamonds and looks set to increase its global leadership of the diamonds trade in the years ahead.

India is also a leading producer and exporter of manufactured and handcrafted gem-set jewellery and aims to boost exports in this category too, senior officials of the state-backed Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) say.

THE JOURNEY OF A DIAMOND

Nearly all diamonds pass through India at some stage of their cutting and polishing. Indian expertise is in the manufacturing of diamonds, which are generally imported as rough stones from origins such as southern Africa and Russia.

Net exports of Indian gems and jewellery rose to US$35.59 billion in fiscal year 2016-17, from US$15.66 billion in fiscal year 2004-5, according to the India Brand Equity Foundation.

The net exports of gems and jewellery from India rose at a compound annual growth rate of 7.01 percent from fiscal year 2005 to 2017, it added.

The rough diamonds are processed in state-of-the-art factories in centres such as Mumbai and Surat by a highly skilled labour force, and are then predominantly re-exported either as loose polished diamonds or set in finished jewellery.

THE MARKET FOR DIAMONDS IN INDIA

India, the world’s second most populous country after China, also has a growing domestic market for diamond jewellery as its middle class expands well into the hundreds of millions.

The GJEPC is charting a strategy to boost exports of polished diamonds further.

Recently the export strategy faced challenges after the government decided to double the import duty on polished diamonds to 5 percent, causing the GJEPC leadership to express disappointment over the move, fearing a slowdown in exports.

Nevertheless, the economies of scale of Indian diamond manufacturing and the extensive Indian diaspora in the trade around the world, will ensure that India remains highly competitive in the processing and export of polished diamonds in the years to come, jewellers say.

Much of the global trading of diamonds takes place in centres such as Antwerp and Dubai, where Indian businesses are already long established.

The GJEPC has strongly supported the generic marketing of diamonds led by the miner-backed Diamond Producers Association (DPA), whose initial campaigns have included the Indian market as well as other leading diamond jewellery markets such as the United States and China.

In coloured gemstones, the Indian city of Jaipur is India’s leading cutting centre, processing mainly imported stones.

The collection by K.P. Sanghvi reveals a modern edge, showcasing rings in three shades of German alloyed rose, white and yellow gold, fitted with diamonds using the latest machine technology.
The collection by K.P. Sanghvi reveals a modern edge, showcasing rings in three shades of German alloyed rose, white and yellow gold, fitted with diamonds using the latest machine technology.

INTERNATIONAL TRADE SHOWS FOR THE INDIAN MARKET

International trade shows are leading gateways for exports of Indian gems and jewellery, including the India International Jewellery Show (IIJS) in Mumbai, held twice a year, in February and July/August.

The IIJS events, visited by retailers from around the world, showcase the latest Indian jewellery designs in 22-carat gold, often set with diamonds and coloured gemstones manufactured in India.

India is one of the world’s top gold consumers and has a long tradition of using the yellow metal in wedding jewellery that belongs to the bride.

Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas
Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas;
Jewellers from Jaipur present a graceful, multi-layered necklace from their Adaa collection, inspired by royal women in India, adorned in floral motifs set with diamonds, emeralds and rubies.

The GJEPC has organised Indian pavilions at international trade fairs, to present the latest creations by Indian manufacturers and designers.

The body also organises buyer-seller meetings at which retailers from around the world buy from Indian gemstone and jewellery suppliers.

High end Indian designer-brands that have a high profile internationally, include Bina Goenka, and Farah Khan Ali.

MORE RECENT SCANDALS

A recent cloud hanging over the Indian gem and jewellery industry has been alleged bank fraud involving jewellers Nirav Modi and Gitanjali.

The focus of the GJEPC going forward will be to help in the promotion of up-and-coming Indian jewellery brands around the world, and in improving the image and reputation of goods that are “Made in India,” GJEPC officials say.

Jewellers who have combined Western and Eastern design influences, such as PureJewels in London, have had success in reaching out to the diaspora, notably the affluent British Asian market which is estimated to be worth around 2 percent of the UK retail jewellery market.

British Asian jewellery retailers tend to stock jewellery that was manufactured in India, where they often have family connections, as well as Western brands.

As jewellery consumers in the Indian diaspora become increasingly sophisticated, travelling in the West and enjoying higher incomes, tastes in design are becoming more cosmopolitan, so trends may develop in future merging Indian heritage with Western style.

IJL is #withyou offering insights on the global jewellery industry and other relevant content for our vibrant trade. Find out more about this year’s exhibitors from across the globe, here

KickStart Alumni: Lauren Rowden of Ellie Air Talks Business Growth and Her IJL Journey

As the creative director of Ellie Air Jewellery, Lauren Rowden turned to KickStart to give her business a push in the right direction in 2015.

Here, Rowden shares her top tips for KickStart success and explains why investing in a shared stand will always reap rewards in the long-term.

Q: What was your overall impression of KickStart and how did it help your business in its early stages?

KickStart was a great step up into the multi-dimensional business side of the jewellery industry. Meeting industry professionals within sales, management and accounting meant that I had an excellent chance to network at the event.

Lauren Rowden Ellie Air Jewllery working at the bench
Lauren Rowden is now at the helm of Ellie Air Jewellery full time.

KickStart is the best way to start exhibiting at a large trade show like IJL as buyers and press are funnelled directly to your stand. This is better than hoping they see you as they pass in the corridors.

Q. Being a KickStarter does involve investing in the cost of a shared stand at IJL 2018 – what would you say to people who are worried about taking the leap?

If you are looking to go into trade and wholesale then IJL and KickStart are hugely beneficial. Both time and money invested will inevitably be repaid, maybe at the show, maybe within a few weeks and months, but definitely year-on-year.

Ellie Air Jewellery Signature Ring
The Orrery Keepsake ring with Ellie Air Jewellery’s signature star-shaped setting in gold.

Q. How can future KickStarters capitalise on their IJL Journey and the IJL experience? What would be your advice?

To really invest into everything that’s on offer, whether that’s advice on pricing, sales, press packages etc, but also making the most of your one chance to display to new buyers and press.

Ellie Air Jewellery Necklace
Sunburst pendant by Ellie Air Jewellery.

Q. How did KickStart help you on your journey to success?

It was an unparalleled step into the wholesale industry. Having now exhibited at IJL for three years I still get asked if I was in KickStart – buyers and press really notice you and pay attention if your product and price point is presented in the best way.

Q. Finally, how is your jewellery industry career or brand progressing and what are you hoping to achieve in the future?

I now work full time for Ellie Air, having expanded the brand to the point where it is recognised in the UK and starting to be in America, both as wholesale and also a bespoke service provider.

To read more terms and conditions about KickStart, please click here

To apply for KickStart, please click here. 

The 2017 KickStarters at their shared stand at Olympia.

What is the IJL Journey?

As part of our IJL 365 approach, the IJL Journey extends far beyond our three-day trade event. It offers myriad career-boosting benefits, including a mentoring package, workshop days, ongoing pricing, branding and marketing support, and introductions to key industry figures.

This invaluable advice prepares each Bright Young Gem, KickStarter and Design Gallery Exhibitor to meet the 9,000 strong jewellery audience at IJL 2018, from September 2-4.

Discover more about the IJL Journey, here. 

IJL is #withyou offering career opportunities and the chance to grow your jewellery business, whether you are a student, recent graduate, emerging brand or established player. Speak to our team to find out more. 

Quick Links:Listen to our IJL Talks podcast series

Quick Links: Discover how to create a press pack 

International Women’s Day 2018: Celebrating Inspiring Women in Jewellery

This Thursday (March 8, 2018) marks International Women’s Day – a global meeting of minds that address challenges for women in the workplace, at home and in the wider world.

Of course, this day is also about celebrating inspiring women who are making a difference, standing up for others and doing innovative and interesting things in their chosen field. This year’s International Women’s Day has the theme #PressforProgress, with an emphasis on staying motivated and being determined to succeed no matter the goal.

Unfortunately, there are plenty of reasons why women need to stay motivated to make change. According to a recent report by the BBC, the majority of medium and large companies pay higher wage rates to men than to women. This disparity, known as the gender pay gap, reflects the different average hourly salaries earned by men and women.

According to data by the government, 74% of businesses pay higher rates to men, while just 15% of businesses with more than 250 staff members pay more to women.

International Women's Day IJL 2018
International Women’s Day spotlights women in all industries across the globe.

And while pay continues to be an issue, the lack of diversity in senior management and leadership roles is also a cause for concern. According to Helen Dickinson OBE, chief executive of the British Retail Consortium: “Companies harnessing the power of diversity throughout their business, from the bottom to the top, do better. So, why is it still that not enough women in retail are able to climb the ladder?”

Quoted in a report by Women in Retail, she continue: “Change will not happen unless we come together as an industry, recognise more needs to be done and take effective action.”

Did you Know? There are just 10 female board members out of a total of 67 across all seven member companies of the Diamond Producers Association. At executive committee level, women account for just 11% of the total number of employees (six out of a total of 53). Diamond Producers Association October 2017 figures

This Women in Retail report titled ‘The Commercial Advantage of More Women in the Boardroom’ goes on to highlight that 60% of people employed by the retail industry are women, and 85% of all retail purchases are made or influenced by women. Despite this, only 20% of executive teams and just 10% of executive boards are women.

International Women's Day IJL 2018 KICKSTARTERS 2017 alumni
The 2017 KickStarters highlighted the creativity of female designers at IJL 2017.

But the problem doesn’t start and end with retail. Throughout the jewellery supply chain women are grappling for better opportunities. In 2002, the South African Mining Charter introduced quotas to get mining companies to employ at least 10% female staff (there were just 2% women in the year 2000). This enforced step towards diversity was pushed further in 2017, and mining companies (including the likes of De Beers) are now required to include a minimum 25% black female representation at board level and a 44% minimum black female requirement at junior management level.

Yet the focus on ‘gender diversity’ often misses the issue of ‘gender inclusivity’ – while one is a numbers game, the other requires companies to create policies that make people feel welcomed, accepted and empowered in their roles. The US-based Women’s Jewelry Association is currently tackling this head-on with its new ‘advocacy task force’, which targets “gender-related biases in the jewelry industry workplace, including policies related to care giving, advancement and compensation”.

Taking up this mantle in the United Kingdom is the Women’s Jewellery Network. Co-founder, Kathryn Bishop, says:

“The Women’s Jewellery Network was conceived several years ago, and officially launched at IJL in 2017. Myself and founder Victoria (McKay, COO of the London Diamond Bourse) had found, increasingly through conversations with our women peers in the industry, that they and their colleagues wanted more support in their career progression in the UK industry.

“Whether they were graduates, management, worked in retail or were established designers, there was a clear lack of specific body in our trade that could support women in their career progression. So the WJN was born – a platform where women can connect with one another, meet in person through a nationwide series of events, converse through social channels and, over time, build a UK and international hub of women in industry able to connect, grow and inspire one another.”

Topics being discussed by the Women’s Jewellery Network for International Women’s Day include the #NoGlassCeiling campaign, launched in January to inspire women to look beyond the (invisible) glass ceiling that can often be a barrier to their personal growth, achieving the work/life balance, and finally how women’s own lifestyle choices and tastes will shape how the industry evolves in the years ahead.

Other members of the IJL community agree that a sense of collaboration is required to make changes. Sarah Greenaway, founder of jewellery brand Mosami and an active member of industry change group, Fair Luxury, comments:

“In a rapidly changing world where consumers are increasingly asking questions about where and how their purchases are made, our industry has some profound changes to make. Personally I find this an incredibly exciting time with an opportunity to create real differentiation in parallel with building a future-fit business that has a positive impact (or at least neutral impact) on the environment and a positive impact on society.

“Solving problems as huge and deep rooted as these requires courage, collaboration, drive and compassion – all are things that women excel at, and I fiercely believe that by working together we will make real and lasting changes – a legacy for our children.”

Lisa Levinson, a diamond specialist and consultant to the trade, adds: “Role models are important, there’s a legacy of women pioneering diamond exploration. Female scientists discovered some of the most important diamonds mines. Larissa Popugaeva discovered the first diamond bearing kimberlite in Russia, Maureen Muggeridge found the Argyle diamond mine and Eira Thomas found the Diavik diamond mine. I find that inspiring, they excelled at world’s largest treasure hunt.”

And Lucy Quartermaine, designer and IJL exhibitor, notes: “As a woman in the jewellery industry, I have been fortunate to be supported by other women whether other designers, media, marketing or those working within industry bodies. The strong network of women in the business enables us to share ideas and experiences as well as celebrate our successes.”

Champagne International Women's Day March 8 2018
Celebrate the innovative and inspirational women who make the jewellery industry great.

In the spirit of role models, we believe it is important to highlight some of the incredible females in our trade. Take a look below to discover some of our pioneering exhibitors and community members… of course, there are many many more!

For innovative pearls… look no further than Claudia Bradby, Miranda Raw of Raw Pearls and Bibi Southwell of ORA Pearls

For forward-thinking suppliers… turn to Julie Fowler Drake of Talbots

For up-and-coming talents… don’t miss Farrah Al-Dujaili of Oddical, Alice Barnes, Cara Tonkin and Lauren Rowden of Ellie Air Jewellery

For sales stars… speak to Laura Ager of Bezel Watches, Victoria Louise of LucyQ and Carol Sinfield of Hockley Mint

For big business… track down Lucy Reece-Raybould, executive director of business development at the Company of Master Jewellers, and Helen Haddow, chief executive of the Houlden Group

For industry media titans… contact Ruth Faulkner of Retail Jeweller, Stacey Hailes of Professional Jeweller and Belinda Morris of The Jeweller

For designers with discretion… don’t miss V by Laura Vann, Sif Jakobs, Anna Emmett of Henryka, Rachel Galley, Susi Smither of The Rock Hound and Vicki Smith at VIXI Jewellery

Share your #IWDxIJL2018 stars on social media. Here’s to a fantastic year for all our pioneering female exhibitors, visitors and Diamond Club Members!

IJL is #withyou supporting business growth and offering networking opportunities throughout the year and for three sparkling days in September. Speak to our team to find out more